CB Amp wiring question on W 900 2010

I don't see it being anything with the computer. But I would double check my connections, or see if a wire fell out of sight and was left off. If the power wire you ran was shorted to ground bad enough to show discharge you would have seen the smoke by now.

 

My knowledge is with car stereo amps but it should be the same thing. The ground is the most important connection. You want to use a chassis ground as close to the unit as possible to keep the noise down. Usually you can find a bolt penetrating the firewall near it you can use. You don't want to run the whole way to the battery.

You don't have to fuse both ends. If there is a short any fuse will blow rated for the wire will blow. That's another thing, what size wire are you using and what is the amp rating?

 

Does one of the cables have a wire factory made in it on the positive side, like maybe 8 gauge size. If so its possible that it lost its connection in the factory crimp when it was taken off. Also look at back of alternator it should still be a 2 wire self exciting. 1 power and 1 ground. I know it was fine before and common sense says check where you worked, but stranger things have happened.

 

I'll go ahead and move this to the CB forums. You'll get more replies there.

 

Did you try and remove the new positive and negative leads that you installed and verify that the problem goes away ?
Did you have the problem with the new positive and negative leads 'before' you hooked up the CB . Disconnect the CB from the installed + and - to check

If the problem is still there with the CB taken out of the scenario , disconnect the + wire you installed and check your amperage gauge .
I'm thinking that as you isolate where the problem is actually coming from you will find a bad crimp on a connector of either - or + , or a ridiculous resistance value on a fuse in that power lead .



~S~

 

Addionally.... concerning a ground . Not to step on CondoCruisers toes here but....

1. The only known ground is the battery. Its the best on the vehicle . That may or may not change for audio
systems only in the event of a ground loop. A variance in ground potential between devices causes hiss.
2 ground loop and variance of potential is tested with a multimeter .

Ground the amp to the same ground as the rest of the audio equipment in truck ...or the battery. Not a paint covered
bolt on the firewall .

Schism