under the concept that syntetic oil never breaks down, it only accumulates particles
so if you remove the particles, you never have to change your oil
Anyone using synthetic oil & an oil filtering system?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by EZX1100, Jan 1, 2014.
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Sub-micron filtration is whats needed. Organics do not break down either. Myself, im using Rotella T-6, with the spinner ii, 560HE oil cleaning centrifuge. I change my oil filters about 8,500 miles & top off with Rotella T-6. My oil is translucent. i.e. I can see the metal dipstick thru my oil.
EZX1100 Thanks this. -
I just added the OPS and T-6 Rotella to my 2008 Frightliner with a Detroit 60. I'm only half way to my first filter change. But from my research and people I know or who I have met with the same system. IMO you can't go wrong with it. The only thing I think I should have done different was use AMSIOL rather than the Rotella. I am completely sold on synthetic oils for everything I have but after the research AMSOIL is the best.
EZX1100 Thanks this. -
Rotella T6... there's a lot of benefits. If you take the numbers put out on decrease of viscous friction by the industry, you'll get a 2% increase in fuel economy from it. I haven't added a bypass filter yet because of my contractual obligations to throw it out... however that's coming. You do have to sample the oil, and have it analyzed.
EZX1100 Thanks this. -
Yes and no
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Just switched to Amsoil 5w40 the end of December. My truck starts a lot easier when cold. Oil pressure is within 2 Psi of the 15W40. I don't mash on it often but I seem to have gained 3 PSI turbo boost. I don't have a by-pass filter yet.
tirednaz Thanks this. -
With a OPS you will greatly increase the life of the oil.
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That's the plan, put on an OPS filter. Still not sure about this, but gonna give it a try. Had 1,298,000 on it before the overhaul though, so I hate to mess with what works. I ran 15-20,000 on oil changes before.
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Run the synthetic and a good bypass system , and pull a oil sample at 25000 and change the main engine oil filter. Top off oil level . Change oil based on test results. Many can go 150k plus between drains .
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Well, it is not quite true that synthetics or conventional base oils will not "break down". Under certain conditions, the molecules can shear, or break apart, which causes a viscosity drop. Over time, a 40 weight oil could shear to a 30 weight oil. It is purely subjective. My Detroit series 60 would shear a Delo full synthetic 5w40 pretty bad, but the Schaeffer 15w40 synthetic blend I use now, doesn't shear at all in this motor. Each engine and oil combination is different.
This is yet another good reason to do regular oil sampling. It isn't just wear numbers that are a problem, but is the oil itself holding up in your motor? And different brands of oil have different additive packages in them. Some engines seem to do better on different brands of oil, simply because of the additive package, which by the way, makes up over 40% of the oil in a gallon jug.
Personally, I recommend anyone going to synthetics give the Schaeffer brand a try. I can get a 15w40 synthetic blend delivered free to my house with oil sample kits included... a 55 drum of the stuff for $980. That is around $17.81 a gallon delivered, with several free oil sample kits. A full synthetic 5w40 is $1118 delivered to the house with sample kits. Or, $20.32 a gallon delivered free with free oil sample kits. You can get 30 gallon drums of each of these also, or gallon jugs in cases. The best value is in bulk. I just refill jugs when I need to do an oil change.JDP Thanks this.
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