I was servicing the n14 in the 01 Pete i bought a couple months ago, went to change the coolant filter and it appears that the internals must be plugged, there was only about an ounce of coolant in the filter and the underside of the spin on housing was dry. So, tomorrows project is gonna be pulling the entire cooler assembly to clean it out/inspect it, thought this would be a good time to change the oil cooler as preventative maintenance to avoid downtime. Called cummins, they want $1100 CDN for just the cooler, thought that was a little steep so i searched the net, seems everyone is selling a cooler PAI industries, looks identical to the cummins unit, i like genuine cummins parts but thinking this way more reasonable option at a 3rd of the price for a cooler that looks the same, and probably is the same one cummins sells and jacks the price. Any input on this guy? Has anyone ever used PAI's products?
N14 oil cooler
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Juicehauler, Apr 4, 2014.
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I believe those have a coolant filter shut-off valve, are you sure that was open? It'd be a 3/4" or 5/8" hex head, stainless iirc, with an Allen head lock bolt keeping it from rotating on its own. I've seen that before, go to change the coolant filter, and it's still shut off from the last filter change. D'oh! May not be your problem, but we can hope, right?
jamespmack Thanks this. -
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It was closed when I took the filter off, but even with it now open it is still dry
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took the housing off of the motor, and since the valve has been closed for who knows how long, it is all plugged up inside. Does anyone know how to remove the valve from its seat? It appears that once that Allen bolt is out the valve should just pull out with a decent grunt from a prybar, the good news is the oil cooler is bright and shiny inside.
jamespmack Thanks this. -
Yes, once the hex bolt is removed the valve pulls straight out. It will be very stiff to get out. There is an oring to seal it. A rust dam will be built up on the outside of it making it hard to pull out. Spray it with a good penetrating oil and just twist it back and forth and pry on it until it pops out.
jamespmack Thanks this. -
If it turns penatrating oil may help, most times you have to drill it out and put in a lag screw and pull it out, use a cotter pin with some emery to polish the inside of the bore, gently, with solvent, then install the new valve and "O" rings. The oil coolers on an N14 are tough, I do not ever remember replacing one, because of leaking.
Just a thought!bullhaulerswife Thanks this. -
got it pulled with a wrench and prybar, i can see why there was no flow, i had actually had to chisel the crap out of the coolant holes. Gotta wait till monday for some gaskets and o rings now.
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I take it you use DCA4 that is why every OEM changed their stock coolant to power-cool.
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I use turbo power heavy duty antifreeze, it's pre charged with sca's
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