What's the biggest alternator available?

Then why did you add all the info about solar if all you needed was an alternator and no actual data/help. You don't have to be an donkey hole. I was just using my experience to help you save hundreds of dollars on equipment that wont help you do what you want it to. If all you wanted was an alternator you post should have been:

"I have a 2015 volvo 780. Whats the biggest alternator i can put on there"

But instead you went off on an tangent about solar. Then you have the nerve to say im insulting you when i give you information about solar. So you wasted your money on solar. Thats not an insult. I've wasted my money on stuff. but if no one tells you your gonna keep putting more money into something that doesn't work. I looked at what you said you were trying to and came up with a recommendation. You dont need to take it, but dont say im insulting you when im just trying to help you. If anything i insulted the efficiently of solar. Not you.


If all you want is a huge ### alternator go with the longhaul extreme from bash. it can put out 200 amps. Shop around because price will varry as much as 200 bucks. This certainly wont solve your going to Europe problem or taking a 10 hour break without having to idle when using a/c, but hey, if thats what you want...go buy one. Note i got 2 thanks on my original post, so clearly not every one thought i was just insulting you

 

Make sure you have an amp gauge to avoid running the alternator at 100% for too long, and add as many high quality, high capacity batteries as you can fit. I've installed between-the-framerail battery boxes on trucks with the service batteries under the driver's step, you might look into mounting a battery box under the passenger's side step as well, if there's room. Some Western Stars have battery boxes that mount two or three batteries longitudinally, on each side, might check those out to save some space.

Is that a refrigerated trailer? Try installing the biggest alternator you can on the reefer motor, and hook that electrical system up to the truck's batteries when parked. It'll act much like an APU, but won't take up space on the truck. Plus, the reefer engine doesn't look like it's idling, it's doing its job, keeping the load cold, right? maybe look into a larger fuel tank if needed, I've seen some doozies in the past.

Not necessarily directed at the O.P., but others looking for alternatives to idling the big power unit.

 

Delco-remy 28SI 200 amp fits your bill. It is priced well, has internal fins, isn't large and easy to install. Highly recommend it. You will not find better value in an alternator. Once you go into the 240+ amp range the price absolutely skyrockets. We're talking from $350 to $900+ just for a few amps.

 

Let me hijack this thread. I am buying two new 2015 Volvo 780's. They arrive in late July. One is Red and the other is blue. I am good with colors.

Tell me using small words (remember my undergraduate degree is a BSNE) why I should not get a tri pak and not worry about anything else?

You mentioned space limitations?

Doesn't a tri pak power your truck for the 34 hours? Doesn't it comply with California laws?

I have not spent anytime doing research and would like to put as little effort in this area as I can.

With the idea that money is not a problem, what is the ideal set up for me. And the under bunk heater, is that part of the tri pac thing or is it something else I have to get. Comfort is very important to me. I bruise easily.

 

the biggest volvo alternator setup is two alternator setup on interstate buses. usually stock 140 amp alternator + additional 450 amp alternator with auxilarry colling fan.

 

stocktonhauler, you won't be able to unbolt the old one and install the new one. You will have to change out the battery cables too. The old cables will fry carrying the extra 65 amps. If you're going to add extra batteries, perhaps installing some deep cycle RV batteries and a battery isolator may be a better way to go. Use these for you climate control needs only. Leave the lights, TV, etc. on the regular batteries as wired by the factory.

 

The Volvo engines I've changed alternators on have been picky about which alternator will fit. For example, the standard alternator we kept in stock wouldn't fit because the bolts holding the front half to the rear of the housing were external, and would hit the manifold and bracket before tucking into it's mounting point. Have to get an alternator that's exactly the same, except those bolts are located inside the perimeter of the housing. If you get the wrong one, you'll know when it refuses to ease into place.

 

long tour buses in Europe are generally with 24v system, becouse there are many fans, lamps, friges, there are lavatories.... and 12 V wires are too heavy. so they use 24 v systems

 

You can forget about running an A/C unit on batteries to stay cool during a 34. I'm based in PA, and my company has the battery powered A/C units in ProStars. To keep cool for a 10 hour break in 85 degree weather, you have to get the interior as cold as you can while running the engine, then close the bunk curtains and switch on the battery powered A/C. Don't even think about opening the curtains during your 10. And even then, load shedding starts shutting things down after about 8 hours.

Oh, and the batteries take up more space than that TK APU does.