Downshift floating

On a 10 speed, start breaking, when you get down to about 1100 RPMs, lightly tap the accelerator to pop the shifter out of gear, then rev and put the shifter in 9th gear. You shouldn't have to force anything, when your RPMs come back down the shifter should be sucked into gear. The amount of rev also depends on the individual truck. Some require a pretty stiff rev, while others a tiny or small rev. You have to experiment to find out what is right for the individual truck you are driving.

Again, apply breaks, when you get down to about 1100 RPMs, lightly tap the accelerator to pop the shifter out of gear, then like before rev and put the shifter into 8th gear this time. Apply breaks again and repeat the process as needed. Practice the above techniques for a couple of days and you should have it.

 

When you float the gears you are basically matching the gears on the transmission. You will need to have higher rpms when downshifting than upshifting due to the gearing. Never force the shifter into the next gear. Doing so can damage your transmission. I have seen transmissions where the gears are all in pieces. Parts do wear out, but forcing the gears can greatly advance the life of your gears.

 

Grade makes a difference too. Downhill means more throttle to match engine speed gained in that short amount of time you're in neutral. I'm learning floating in the mountains so...

 

You already know what you are suppose to be doing, all as your problem is, is repetition. Go into and out of rest areas when you have time and practise your shifting.

 

30 years of trucking? With all due respect, that depends on the trans doesn't it....and he didn't say.

 

Yeah,GMan pretty much summed up the downshifting.I will add that a lot of these newer trucks seem to "fall off a lot faster than the older ones" rpm' s and all.You should never "fight it".Rev a little higher and quicker to compensate for the quick rpm drop. Should be able to "float" down with 2 fingers. Also match speedometer speed to the gear you're hunting for. Obviously not trying for 6th gear at 40mph.

 

If you are driving a truck that is set up by one of the mega's they often inhibit the maximum rpm's from the computer. Therefore if you want to float gears downshifting you should bring your rpm's down to less than 1100 to most easily make the downshift in the 1400 to 1500 range. I usually bring it down to 1000 and sometimes will take it on down to the 700 or 800 range if I want to skip a gear or simply get into the next gear at around 1200-1300. If I'm downshifting on a steep downgrade I always bring it down to the 700 to 800 range.

Always disengage the jake when you are downshifting, at least when you are first learning. Reengage it if you need to after the shift is completed. Later you can leave the jake on when you are able to smoothly downshift.

In heavy traffic I usually stay around 1200 rpm's and don't use the jake. Leaving lots of room in front and try to maintain a steady speed is much more relaxing and safer than trying to get right up on the backside of the vehicle in front. I never went to medical school, but it seems like a lot of truckers used to be Proctologists.

Make sure your throttle foot is doing everything gradually. Probably the most common mistake is over revving. As others have noted, take your time learning on roads where there is no traffic. Let the stick slide out of gear and slide into gear with two fingers, never try to force it.

 

You would think someone with 30 yrs would know. So I pose the question. Does it depend on gearing or is it the Diesel engine that constitutes the RPM range in gear selection?

 

RU asking me? Because I don't want to spoil it if you aint.

 

Or anyone else. Take your best shot.