more 359 Pete questions

[QUOTE="semi" retired;4065976]Wow, $195 bucks? The heck with it, I'd say, just find out if it's off and by how much, and go from there. I think it's more important, that after you're done with the hill and higher temps, the needle does come back down, and the motor doesn't stay hot. [/QUOTE]
Yeah I know. Ouch. Even the local truck parts store is charging over $160 for a Stewart Warner with a 270 degree sweep.

[QUOTE="semi" retired;4065976]Also, on the clutch, does your's go through the floor? On mine, there was a rubber pad under the floor that came off, and the pedal was higher than normal.[/QUOTE]
Yes it goes through the floor. I fixed that today. The rubber was still there but it just slides on the round bar that serves as a clutch pedal. The rubber does nothing except serve as a seal to keep the air out or the cab. I will try to post a pic of my fix in the next couple of days. Going to Saratoga Springs tonight.

 

Ok so today put the coolant temp sensor in a pot of boiling water and it reads perfectly....212 F right on the nose. That basically means my engine never gets below 195 and I struggle to keep it below 215. I have never seen the idiot light come on.

I ran a wire from the idiot light to the +battery and another wire from idiot light to -battery and verified that I have light and sound.

I pulled the middle sensor from the cylinder head and wired it between the battery and the idiot light to verify that the sensor worked. Heated it up with a propane torch and the idiot light came on. Sensor is good.

Re-installed the middle sensor back in the cylinder head and put + volt meter lead on one terminal and the - lead to grnd....got 1 v. Moved the + lead to the other terminal and got 1.6v. Ah ha. I think I have a broken wire and not getting power to middle coolant temp sensor in cylinder head. Pretty sure it should be 12v.

I tried for 2 hrs to trace the wires from the engine fan rocker switch to the temp sensor but no luck. I think tomorrow I will run new wires.

As for the high operating temps, not sure if it's the reason but my rad is rotten. I have never seen a rad this bad. Time for a visit to the rad shop tomorrow also.

 

I spoke to them today. They quoted me a much better price than I got locally. $650 for the core. $325 extra for them to swap the tanks, test the CAC. $600 extra again if they do the R&R.

On another note, Jake, how do you like the 15 OD with those 3.55 rear gears?

 

Can anyone tell me where the T-stat is located? This thing must have a 190 in it at least.

 

I'm sorry for all the questions.

I ran a new wire to get 12v to that two terminal sensor between the heads. Ran another wire from the second terminal to the switch that turns the fan on. Now when the sensor closes the water temp light and buzzer come on. Yee-haw. Baby steps.

Next. Someone must not have re-aligned the steering wheel the last time they had an alignment done because one of the spokes blocks my view of the water temp gauge. I started to remove the steering wheel to fix it but it seem like the rubber horn button is glued to the steering wheel and I don't want to wreck it. Does anyone know if I'm supposed to take the rubber off or is it the entire center hub that comes off?