13 speed...TOAST?? Any ideas...

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Trcknwolf, Aug 22, 2014.

  1. Trcknwolf

    Trcknwolf Light Load Member

    57
    27
    Nov 24, 2010
    Bellevue, NE
    0
    This isn't a rear end problem boys. Mechanic yesterday confirmed both rears are fine. I was actually scheduled to have the oil in the trans & both rears changed this weekend. He said the oil from both rears looked & smelled really good! Plug had very little metal shavings on it. The front diff back in March got all new axle bearings & seals. Also just got a input shaft yoke & seal. The drop outs were rebuilt approx 300K ago. They were filled using industrial grade mineral oil. And that is what I will continue to use. Werner's entire truck fleet has run it in all their transmissions & rear ends since the 1980's! I have temp gauges for both rears & the trans. When this problem presented its ugly head, the gauges were reading "normal operating temps". Plus I will randomly use an infrared thermometer to verify all my temp gauges are reading accurately. As far as the clutch goes, it was replaced too back in March. Along with the flywheel being resurfaced. I had a premium "manual" adjustment clutch installed. Those "auto" adjuster clutches are GARBAGE!!! This is the 1st adjustment it has had. Which wasn't much. He also pulled off the inspection cover an said the clutch looks fine. Pedal operation is fine too. Oh yeah, he confirmed this is a trans problem by starting the engine, putting the trans into gear WITHOUT using the clutch & verified the drive shaft was not turning!!! The trans will get drained tomorrow, so I'll let you all know how that goes....
     
    wore out Thanks this.
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  3. Powder Joints

    Powder Joints Subjective Prognosticator

    7,947
    8,291
    Sep 25, 2007
    Rosamond, SoCal
    0
    Change the direct/OT switch (valve) first maybe it simply is not selecting the OD.
     
  4. 55_cans

    55_cans Light Load Member

    98
    19
    Sep 14, 2012
    Alberta
    0
    If the clutch is engaged (depressed) all the time, you can move into any gear with the engine running, plus the output shaft will not turn. Did you check free play?

    Remember your detailed story - you lost gears starting from the high end, eventually going down to the lowers. This is what happens if the clutch has little free play. The higher gears generate more torque loading, the engine twists and the clutch linkage engages (depresses) the clutch. The clutch slips, you lose friction material and as it wears it works its way down your gears.

    Almost sure this is your problem.
     
    blanco Thanks this.
  5. Trcknwolf

    Trcknwolf Light Load Member

    57
    27
    Nov 24, 2010
    Bellevue, NE
    0
    UPDATE: Transmission fix...er, uh... rebuilt, sort of. The main box was fine. Oil was dirty but had very little metal shavings in it. The problem was in the back box. The range shaft fork broke which cause the trans to be "stuck" in a neutral position. Mechanic took the whole thing apart & I'm glad he did!! Had 1 shot synchro, other 2 were not in much better shape, large bearing on the center shaft was history (Chinese part), the main drive gear on the center shaft had worn inner teeth as did the shift range coupler gear, and the 4 bearings on the 2 side shafts had some wear (again Chinese bearings). So $2500 later the back box is mostly all new.
     
    wore out and 55_cans Thank this.
  6. rank

    rank Road Train Member

    9,919
    113,508
    Feb 11, 2010
    50 miles north of Rochester, NY
    0
    I think the syncros have been shot in every used truck we've ever bought. I just clutch. What causes that anyway? Is it normal wear or are they murdered?
     
  7. 55_cans

    55_cans Light Load Member

    98
    19
    Sep 14, 2012
    Alberta
    0
    Thanks for the update. I was almost sure it was your clutch. Not very common that a tranny fails progressively and slowly from the top gears down. Always learn something new here.
     
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