Yup, not supposed to chain coated pipe. I never even belly wrapped pipe when I hauled it. Didn't even have a full load move but I had them move once on a 5 pipe load that I even belly wrapped lol
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Post flatbed load photos here V2.0
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by leftlanetruckin, Feb 18, 2014.
Page 119 of 2815
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Are those scolloped timbers between the layers? If so that would help with movement
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On that load yes, I think it was 8 inch.
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I use the hook of the chain on the end of the pipe. Unless the pipe comes beveled,.. those welders have a tool that cuts a bevel on the front in 10 seconds flat and must be done anyway. I worked construction for 15 yrs before I got back into trucking.
My life or their convenience. I think self preservation is going to weigh in heavily on that decision making process. Plus,.. the ends arent coated because they will either butt fuse or be manually welded.
Oh,.. and after the pipe gets handled so many times from truck to truck loaded to yard trailers, back hoes,.. yada yada. Laborers have to go over the pipe with a small propane torch and a little green stick that they used to melt and cover any knicks and scratches. Then an anode is used to pull rust and corrosion when it goes in the ground.
Its all good,.. trust me.
Hurst -
I'm not talking about the coating. You may have worked in construction but I doubt you've pipelined very much. Obviously you've never had an entire load rejected by an anal inspector for having w nick in the bevel have Taft happen once and not get paid and tell me how it works out for you. Line pipe is pre beveled for a reason.
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I dont haul much pipe. True, I'm step deck. It has to be paying above average for me to reluctantly do it. Usually a Dickinson, Minot or Williston run. How ever,.. I still value my life. The pipe can be hooked with out damaging the pipe. Its done as a safety chain would be done when towing vehicles on a flatbed.
The chain is not tight. My method, I loop the chain through the bed, hook 2 ends of pipe per chain and then use a bungee to keep the hook from coming off the pipe. If I hit anything or stop hard enough for the pipe to slide forward, the chain will snag the pipe and prevent it from hitting my tractor. Thus saving my life. You do it how you want. I've seen first hand what a load of pipe does when it comes loose. I'm paranoid of loads like that for a reason.
Its not my mainstay load, but I've done enough to boast and say I know what I am doing. Never had any loads rejected. (Knock on wood)
HurstLast edited: Sep 13, 2014
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A loose chain is different as it's probably not going to nick the bevel. A right chain on the other hand is not good at all. I've spent a couple years stringing line pipe up and down some of the nastiest passes you've never wanted to take a truck, so I've got just a little experience with coated pipe
Enough with the pipe hijack on with the pictures. -
I never had any trouble with pipe moving any way they were loaded if pyramid belly wrap twice up front with one strap pulling each way same with back then just throw rest of straps normally. If loaded with dunnage between layers strap every couple of layers with half of the straps pulling each way. And then drive carefully anyway.
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