(627G) Scraper hauling

Discussion in 'Heavy Haul Trucking Forum' started by jacloz2000, Nov 18, 2014.

  1. jacloz2000

    jacloz2000 Bobtail Member

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    Nov 12, 2014
    Nebraska
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    Hey guys, I have a few questions if you would humor me.

    I am part of a small dirt contracting company that has fortunately stumbled upon a rather nice opportunity. One of our customers (He's a 1%er) bought a huge ranch with apparently no roads on it whatsoever, and wants us to spend upwards of 3 months building roads, among other things this coming year. I really don't have any solid details to share other than it is 900 miles away from our "home base".

    As the youngest member of our small family business, I see this distance as an opportunity for us to acquire a good high horsepower truck that is capable of pulling the mountains, and outfitting our current tri-axle load king trailer to be able to pull around our scrapers.

    For years we have simply "gotten by", and let other people haul them for us, or drove them from site-to-site as we do not like to travel far very often, but this is one of those opportunities too good to pass up. Not only will we be getting paid for the machinery freight, but there is also a fair amount of aggregate that will be hauled to cover the roads with belly dumps or side dumps that this truck could be put to work doing.

    That being said, are there any good rules of thumb for putting together rigs hauling 86600 lbs? We have plenty of trucking experience hauling dozers and trackhoes "over the rivers and through the woods", but scrapers are a bit of a different animal to us. We would most likely be going after a Mack, possibly with a small flat-top sleeper, and outfitting it with a tag axle/wet kit, and adding a booster to our trailer. Route would be Wyoming/Montana/Nebraska/South Dakota, not in that order obviously.

    Any input I can get from the professionals would be greatly appreciated, any questions I will do my best to try and answer.

    Also, I will be bribing you with pictures for every helpful response I get, I know the heavy haul guys like their yellow machinery.

    I'll start the bribing off with this http://imgur.com/a/wSbKA

    These are pictures of when our company was in Texas building swine confinements for National Farms/Seabord. Lagoons and big building pads. I was in 2nd or 3rd grade at the time, you can barely see me standing in the motorgrader with my dad in the first picture. My grandpa is sitting there in his overalls on the sheepsfoot packer without the cab. The 627F's are brand-new out of the factory machines, back when the EPA was nothing but a bad dream.
     
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  3. Oscar the KW

    Oscar the KW Going Tarpless

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    If you have a 3 axle trailer with a 4 axle truck you won't need a booster for the trailer, unless your empty weight is real high. I weigh just shy of 50K empty, and can haul a 627G with it backed onto the first bolster, this is with a 29' well though. with a shorter well I would imagine you would have to drive it on and use the bowl to lift the back up, put the neck on, and set the back on blocks down on the neck.

    As far as the truck I wouldn't want less than a set of 3.90's with an 18, I would much prefer 4.10's though. Not sure what you can get power wise with a Mack, but I always like to get as much as can be had.
     
    wore out and jacloz2000 Thank this.
  4. villageidiot

    villageidiot Light Load Member

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    Mar 2, 2012
    Deep South Texas
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    My cousin has a quite a few 621's and his Pete is a 525 horse cummins an 18 speed and 4.10's it pulls real well. He also hauls his D9 with the same setup.
     
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  5. dogcatcher

    dogcatcher Heavy Load Member

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    2,674
    Apr 30, 2010
    tn
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    Well my opinion for what its worth, If your going with a Mack a 460P turned up will give you about 510hp or the new MP10 both good motors 13spd is ok(did it for years with it) 18 is best. As far as rears 3:70s work I prefer 3:90 I think the 4:10 are a bit low for what your hauling.
     
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  6. cnsper

    cnsper Road Train Member

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    Feb 28, 2014
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    Sometimes it is better to do what you are good at and to me it looks like it is running the equipment. Not saying not to do it but think about it. You also have to think like a business man and not someone that wants a new toy. How many times per year do you move the scraper? 2-4 maybe? Now you have to insure and maintain the setup to move it for maybe 12 days a year. What about the other 353 days? Each trip will be to haul your equipment so one way will be empty to either get home or go get another piece etc. You will have to bobtail back to get your bellydump also.

    On the high horsepower, that is BS but nice to have, but once again you are talking about using it to haul your scraper 3-4 times per year. HP does not get you up the hill any faster than a truck that is geared properly. Especially if you are behind them... .LOL

    You have to run the numbers and weigh the benefit versus the cost. Account for driver, fuel, maintenance etc both directions.

    1 Belly dump truck will not make or break your job either. With those you do not want HP but torque and double lockers. You have to pull that loaded trailer up and over your pile. I just spent 2 weeks on a road job running a belly dump and the other trucks were always getting stuck but I could come to a stop, open the gates and pull out of it. In 2 weeks I was stuck twice and both times it was right after they watered for better compaction. We were hauling cobble (or river rock and dirt) as fill for a road base. You know when your duals get on top of those round rocks and you are trying to drag a trailer up the pile. The other trucks were 485 hp with highway specs and they were always getting stuck.
     
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  7. jacloz2000

    jacloz2000 Bobtail Member

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    Nov 12, 2014
    Nebraska
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    We have been weighing this. Our current lowboy truck is a 1988 mack RD688 with a tag axle. Its what...350 HP? It's not as simple of a situation as you may think. We have been "just getting by" for a long, long time. Equipment is getting bigger, and it is getting harder to justify spending money on a truck that as it ages, we will get less money back out of as we are doing repairs and improvements to it. Just doing the hauling of our dozers and trackhoes up there with it makes me cringe, as a stiff headwind makes it difficult to get the thing up to 55. I know, I know, heavy hauling speed kills, wanting to drive the speed limit isn't my main motivation to make an equipment change. The bobtailing and inefficiencies of the trip aren't going to matter, we will be able to charge for our time.

    We do have other heavy machinery. D8's, 32ton class trackhoes, and our rural area dictates that we do a lot of heavy hauling up steep graded country roads. The mack can pull it, but its in the bottom 2 holes and you better be on top of your ####.

    Small family business. Little to no overhead personnel wise. We would be getting an upgrade that, as far as our fleet goes, is the only "hole".

    You're right, but it will help offset the bulk of the cost of a new (to us, not brand new) rig. Good rear ends is why we would be going with a Mack. I wouldn't expect hauling the machinery to and from location to pay for it, and the opportunity is there to put it to work at a good pace with no pressure. The aggregate that it would be hauling is of the kind that you get going about 30 MPH and open the gates and spread out the material on the road, and the grader makes a pass on everything at the end of the day and there's the road. Getting stuck will be a non issue. I'm going to put a trusted friend in it, tell him to drive 55 on the highway and 25 on the dirt roads, and send a bill at the end of the month.

    I'm not so concerned with the business sense of the deal, as I am pretty sure it is a no lose situation - moreso feedback from all of you fine experts about mistakes you made putting together an outfit, and what works "ideally". Thank you for the response though!
     

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  8. jacloz2000

    jacloz2000 Bobtail Member

    12
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    Nov 12, 2014
    Nebraska
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    If I could find an early model Titan for reasonable $$$ I think that would be perfect. They are kind of a rare unit, and I havn't heard much about how they do with their regen/epa outfits. More familiar with the yellow stuff as far as that goes.
     
  9. jacloz2000

    jacloz2000 Bobtail Member

    12
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    Nov 12, 2014
    Nebraska
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    Great stuff, thank you!
     
  10. cnsper

    cnsper Road Train Member

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    If it is an upgrade to what you already have then I would look for a truck with an 18 speed, 46k rears, 3.90 or 4.10 gearing 3.73 at the very outside. Drop axle and if you are patient enough you can find an older truck with a recent inframe or such. I have seen them for as low as 40k. The only reason that I say 46k rears is that you are going to be beating them quite often and they seem to withstand the abuse better. We use walking beam suspension on ours. Hell when empty but you don't have to worry about losing an air bag.
     
  11. jacloz2000

    jacloz2000 Bobtail Member

    12
    1
    Nov 12, 2014
    Nebraska
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    Really this would be about ideal, an older truck (pre '06) thats been overhauled. Older trucks that are in good shape are pretty tough to find, everyone is snapping them up and putting daycabs on them. Corn went crazy the last few years and all the farmers got new trucks, all the #### going on in the Bakken has also driven up prices of trucks...we've been looking for a long time on this deal but havn't really seen anything much worth biting on.
     
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