inverter size

You need to look at the Wattage requirements for the A/C unit....it should be on a tag somewhere. Then I would go AT LEAST 1.5 times that..... and don't go cheap on the wiring.....have a shop do it....and make sure they don't go any smaller than a "0" guage wire...or you'll burn down your truck.

 

one watt of electricity has 3.41 btu's.
5000 div 3.41 =1466 watts x 1.5=2199 watt inverter
a/c load safety safe min inverter
factor

 

LOL even then plan on that baby getting really warm.. you would need to have it well ventilated..

 

And if you install the inverter inside the cab, then you'll need a bigger air conditioner. Then you'll need a bigger inverter, then... well, you get the idea. Seriously, it will throw a lot of heat which will add to your cooling needs. Make sure the cabling feeding it (you're talking almost a 200 amp load) is able to provide the current and is protected with an adequate fuse. Have you looked into an RV air conditioner? Might be better, but probably more expensive.

 

More like 15 to 20 amp load. 200 amps will supply average total electric home in US.

 

YOU CANT RUN YOUR 5000 WINDOW A/C WITH YOUR INVERTER.--THE BATTERIS WOULD BE DEPLETED IN VERY SHORT TIME .I GUESS MAYBE AN HOUR--YOU WOULD NEED TO RUN YOUR ENGINE. TO KEEP YOUR BATS. CHARGED AND BUY AN ALTERNATOR LARGE ENOUGH TO RUN THE INVERTER TO RUN THE A/C.--THAT IS WHY YOUR TRUCK A/C IS POWERED BY YOUR ENGINE AND NOT YOUR BATTERY. THAT IS WHY PEOPLE ARE BUYING THE SMALL GEN-SETS FOR THIER TRUCKS.---NO SUCH THING AS FREE ENERGY WITHOUT A SOURCE.--SORRY TO POP YOUR BUBBLE ,CANT BE DONE.--ITS THE UNIVERSAL LAW OF PHYISICS.

 

The difference is in the input and output voltages of the inverter. On the output side, at 120VAC, the load would be about 20 amps. But on the input side, at roughly 12VDC (1/10th the voltage) the load would be about 200 amps. Power in = Power out (less some inverter loss) so 12VDC x 200a = 2400 watts input for 120VAC x 20a = 2400 watts output.

Handy_man is right, this is pretty impractical. It would take additional batteries, a heavier alternator, and running the engine to keep this kind of power going for any length of time. Not like running a 900 watt microwave oven for a couple of minutes. Sounds like an APU would be the way to go.

 

If this were practical, you would have seen a LOT of them hanging out of the passenger side door of almost every O/O's truck when fuel broke the $2/gal mark. Especially the redneck O/O's out there (which is what I would be if I were one).

 

Well something I had looked into was buying a Yamaha generator that ran on gas.. It has a very low DB out put (noise) and basically just rated over a whisper. Was going to mount it behind the sleeper and use a small A/C window unit..

Cost of generator- $1200-1500 with remote starter
Cost of A/C- around $100-200


You could go for a cheaper generator but then you would be sacrificing noise reduction (it would be louder) and quality...

Many cheap generators on the market but they are pretty loud..