Flashing Amber Beacons for Rear of Trailer
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by jldilley, Mar 12, 2015.
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Honestly I'm not a fan of the beacons at the back of the trailer right beside the other lights. More than a few times I've seen cars ignore turn signal because they get mesmerized by the flashing yellow light. Having a portable separates the two and makes it easier to see the turn signal.
IH Truck Guy, daf105paccar and HighCountry Thank this. -
If you pull a couple of the 4" lights at the rear of your trailer you will find some leads that are not being used. I just found some butt connectors that match the factory leads and put them on my beacon. If you have a wooden nailer in your floor I would sheet metal screw a piece of metal to it and put the magnet on that. Backing up a bit I just run the beacon cord through the 4" light hole. Something I have thought about is getting 2 amber 4" strobes and putting them in place of one of my brake-marker lights when I haul oversize. Then when i'm done just putting the red brake-marker back in.
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Yes, I've decided to do something similar. I will be using some metal plate screwed to the running boards on either side of the trailer. Good advice.
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I did something similar to riprap. Our trailer already had two extra wires from the factory at the marker lights in the back.i got a wireless switch for a sprayer from tractor supply and wired it up to a cigarette lighter plug . I just plug in the strobe or a spot light which ever I need and I can turn it on and off from the cab without having to kill the marker lights! REally good for turning on your strobes in towns with smaller loads that u don't need to run them with or bad intersections.like riprap said 4 inch strobes the best to keep marker lights from pulsing with the strobe. Spot light on back works great backing at night being able turn it on and off.This is on a hyd detachable why it needs to be wireless of course!
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Loving the ideas. This has become a good thread. Thanks for contributing.
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Now you've jinxed it. There will arise a heated discussion on the best way to wire lights in. Someone is going to say that the best wire for a beacon light is 14 gauge copper spliced in, and someone else will say 18 gauge soldered and shrink wrapped with shrink tubing. And they will call each other names and challenge each other to a ##### contest with no women allowed. And the Mods will lock the thread. Your fault. Happens ever time someone says 'this is/willbe/has become a good thread.'HighCountry Thanks this.
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Well I wouldnt consider my way the best, im only doing it that way because all my trailer wiring is unmolested and has no splices or repairs yet and I want to keep it that way as long as possible.
Cluck do you have the amber/strobe-in-one type light? Im thinking of going that route this spring since I am going to run wires to the back for a dump valve, I could do lights off the same power cable. I have a big plate by my DOT bumper, I could cut holes in it to mount the lights and maybe add a couple small side flashers toward the back where the abs light is mounted
They make a strobe flash module for $12.00, then add 2 amber led's, so itd be less than $40 but idk how durable the separate module is compared to the all in one style. -
I tried those strobe flasher module and didn't like them. They seem to get really slow after being on for a while.
I finally just bought the oval becans bulbs and wired them on a switchRiprap Thanks this. -
Here is what I did on our three axle float when we got it to eliminate alot of wiring. I am using a 4" torsion mount amber strobe. I cut a round hole in the back of trailer and mounted the light or lights if you want two in with the tail lights. To wire it up I tapped into the tail light power and ran to a weather proof switch mounted beside the strobe. The only downfall to this is to power the strobe you need to have the trailer lights on (not really a down fall).
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