Heavy haul new truck specs looking for input

Have you checked the bridge formula on a set back axle? The set back doesn't move it as far as you think, and with the truck you explained I can't see how it would be short on bridge even with a set back axle. Any 4 axle tractor is going to be pretty long, the way you described it I would say you would be at least 240" that should bridge anywhere.

 

i was thinking the same thing.

there was some guys last year that were so heavy empty i could scale more legally with 2 less axles than they could. but then again i would not want to do 160k gross permited loads with my specs either. but there is defiantly a point to trying to keep empty weight in check if your planning to pull a dump trailer

 

Now I can't argue that!

 

My input on a truck for up to 160,000 Gross, this is overkill.
I'm rarely under 160,000.
-Double Frame...way too heavy, it's completely unnecessary. Our last round tri-drive trucks that only pull 13 axles so they are never under 200,000 loaded were double framed. They tared in over 30k. They tested one with, and the new round only have an insert.
My truck is single frame. No insert. 6yrs old, over 950,000km(590,000mi), no issues.
46,000 rears are fine for what your doing. We go to all kinds of "drop your jeep and chain up" mines & have never broke a banjo. That puts around 75k on the back end, in/on mine roads, which aren't very nice. Not advisable, and would make the mfg's freak if they knew, you just have to be careful and remember whee you are and what you're doing. In other words, think first.
-Depending on option pricing, I'd prefer 52k Neway suspension. It rides greats, and with your drop axle picked up, it will carry the back end on the airbags as opposed to the axle stops.
-Drop axles---Not legal where I'm from, I don't know anything about them, and can't help with this.
-I agree with the 20k front axle, with 16k springs and dual steering boxes. With a drop axle, your not going to see more than that, in fact you'd be lucky to see 16.
-S/B vs S/F is up to you. S/B does outmaneuver S/F. The cost, rides like crap. And that's being kind. I knew the day I picked mine up I made a mistake on this.
-Oversized Rad is a good option, but you are in the NE...in the winter it will run cool, which with the new emissions engines can create issues. If you run Deep South and lots of low speed, then for sure.
-Transmission cooler...AIR cooled, NOT liquid! When liquid coolers start to leak and contaminate the tranny oil, they take out the synchro...this is usually your first indicator of a problem.
-I would absolutely advise a Webasto or Espar engine and bunk heaters to avoid/reduce idle time as once again, these new generation engines do not like to be idled.
The rest is nice options for your driver, up to you what you want to spend there...

 

I agree with Heavy Hammer. 160,000 gross can be handled by a single-frame if the driver knows what they're doing without significant stress to the truck. The company I pull for runs up to about 250,000 gross, and well over 200,000 with single-framed trucks. We have one "monster" heavy haul rig (double-frame, 2-speed heavy rears, 20k steer and 20k lift). It's a great truck and the truck used when the load has to go into some of the worse locations (or we have to put 180,000 gross on 8-axles). But, with the 2-3-2 10-wide and the 2-2-2 9-wide, even the "light" trucks can do 200,000 without issue.

If you want a little heavier without losing as much payload on the dump side, a partially sleeved frame will be plenty enough.

If you want a big steer axle and actually be able to use it, you'll need a super-slide and the lowboy will have to have a longer-than-normal neck. The truck I mentioned earlier, with a "standard" 13-ft neck on a 60-ton Trail King 3-1 can max out about 19,000 on the steer, but, that requires getting the trailer extremely close to the drive axles (best have removable mudflaps) and you're going to need to watch your turns. So, either spec a lighter steer since you won't need the 20k steer, or, be prepared to look for or order a 13-ft neck with a flip-over on it (not a real common thing to see, but, not unheard of).

If you had the gears, and had the proper trailer, I'd pull 160,000 gross with one of the dump trucks.

I'd also stay away from the automatic. I've seen those things have so many issues it's not even funny. If you're going to go with an auto, stick with Allison, those are and have been used in heavy haul. The company I'm with used to have a little Mack (super-short wheelbase, used for getting machines out of downtown areas and very tight spots) with an Allison in it, did fine from what I've been told.

But, then again, I'm running a set of sticks, so, my opinions on transmissions are... a little outdated?

 

from what I have been told production line's for trucks have pretty well been spoken for so if you need it soon you have to deal with dealer stock I was told if I wanted a new Mack they had a couple slots open that was spoken for long ago for oct. delivery but I needed to act fast. myself I would not want the auto shift. lockers for sure and I would not even worry about fuel mileage with a new emmsion motor hooked to 4.30 gears won't happen even bob tail

 

Oh... do not for get grab handles for both the driver and passanger side of the truck, it make a big difference when you have something to hang on to getting in the out of the truck and makes it a hell of lot safer in wet, muddy and slippery conditions.
A good Boot brush on each side helps too.

 

Those Eaton auto shifts are horrid. If you get an AMT, get the DT12. You would have better luck with the Allison, as long as you have the HP/Torque rating good, it should perform well.