suggestions for a farm/ranch truck?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by totalnoob, May 24, 2015.

  1. totalnoob

    totalnoob Bobtail Member

    13
    0
    Jan 12, 2014
    Minnesota
    0
    Hi peoples, I was wondering if I could get some advice.

    I am still at this moment a near-total newbie (outside reading about big trucks), although i'm considering getting into driving for others too at some point, i'm trying to look for a "lowest cost possible" class 8 for doing heavier tow jobs for farm and ranch type duty. (basically all jobs over 10k, flatbed and van trailer)

    This wont be a vehicle that will be doing alot of miles by trucker standards so it doesn't need to be state of the art, ie fighting for an extra half mpg with the latest computer controlled whatever in a 6x2 direct drive. Rather it's to simply have the ability to move real heavy stuff reliably more infrequently with a low risk of breakdowns, lower cost of repairs/replacements/rebuilds if needed, and being feasible to turn your own wrenches. In short I don't mind "technically obsolete" (vs what the most modern truckers are looking for), i'm more afraid of the cost of a breakdown 1000 miles from home. (i'm also not convinced that mpg wont be had when the shape of the Peterbilt 372 was beating modern trucks decades ago, i'm just looking for cheaper mechanicals)

    Honestly i'm looking for things the market doesn't currently want but in their day were reliable and are still cheap to fix due to parts availability. Please help me narrow down the choices a bit starting with engines and transmissions. I'm looking for "million mile engines" that don't have a million miles on them yet (or were rebuilt) under the hope that passing a compression test and such means it shouldn't crap out in the next 100k. Engines that are also junkyard plentiful and not in modern use so that parts are cheap. I like mechanical injection because electronics is just another point of failure vs just needing fuel and air unless emissions regulations force me off the road. Transmissions that are 'market disfavored', maybe the double overdrive units and numerically high axle ratios are by now/nobody uses anymore because it's a few percent less fuel efficient?

    From what i've read about the Cummins Big Cam series (especially the III) i'm wondering if there is anything likely to be a better fit. It sounds like they were million mile engines, still cheap to fix, still widely available, efficient for their day, and even capable of power upgrades. Is there anything else I should be looking at as well? Sounds like Caterpillars need expensive tools to DIY and are alot more expensive to rebuild or fix if needed. Dont think i'd want a Detroit 2 stroke, theyve been out of use for long enough that parts and such have gone up in price and doubt it's as reliable as a Big Cam.

    I'm not against a cabover, actually i'm hoping some good deals might be found in them because most wouldn't want them. I'm aware they are harder on the body and less good in sleeper designs.
     
  2. Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.

  3. Pedigreed Bulldog

    Pedigreed Bulldog Road Train Member

    7,737
    14,422
    May 7, 2011
    0
    What local sources are available for parts and service beyond your own capabilities? That should rank pretty high in your decision making process. You don't want to have to drive 100 miles one-way for a dealer-specific part. For example, if there is an International dealer within 20 miles, and the nearest Peterbilt dealer is 70 miles away, you may find a heck of a deal on a good Peterbilt, but it'll cost you each and every time you waste a day chasing after a part you can't find anywhere but the dealer. In this hypothetical you'd be better off with an International because you have the local dealer for parts.

    As for scrap yards, it can be a mixed blessing/curse. If the scrap yard has mostly Freightliners, you might think "parts availability"...but you have to wonder WHY all of those trucks are in there. What problem did they have that rendered them scrap-worthy? If the truck you buy has that same common issue, the scrap yard won't be much help. On the other hand, you can find some good hard-to-find parts and pieces for older vehicles there for considerably less than you'll pay at a dealer.

    Personally, I'm partial to Mack for vocational (farm, construction, anywhere "off pavement" is a reality of the job)...but I've got 2 Mack dealers within 30 minutes, a third an hour away, and 4 more within 2-3 hours. Basically any direction I go, I've got one I can hit up if I need anything. Older Macks are pretty easy to turn a wrench on, and if it has a Mack drive train (engine, transmission, rears) it really can't be beat off road. That being said, if the nearest Mack dealer to you is 100 miles away, I wouldn't buy one because a lot of parts are Mack specific and you won't find much at a general truck parts store beyond common parts like air fittings, lug nuts, brakes, etc...

    Like I said, look at the support network available for each truck you look at. The older the truck, the more important that support network becomes because you can't work a truck that isn't running and you can't keep it running if you can't get parts. A great deal on a truck stops looking like a great deal when every time it breaks down you spend a full day driving half way across the state chasing parts, when that truck that was a little more expensive to get into had a local source for parts right there in town.

    Good luck.
     
    totalnoob and brian991219 Thank this.
  4. 315wheelbase

    315wheelbase Heavy Load Member

    783
    602
    Oct 26, 2014
    0
    Go to Iron Planet (they are on the net) there are many surplus military trucks including low mileage freightliners with Detroit engines and Alison transmissions that will work great in and around farms ..They are selling very cheap at the auction site,
    I have seen several in New Mexico hauling trash to landfills and they are traveling on the highways. They will not have A/C and are not luxury cabs but do run and do a good job for local hauling,
     
    totalnoob Thanks this.
  5. WitchingHour

    WitchingHour Road Train Member

    3,424
    2,144
    Apr 1, 2011
    Broomfield, CO
    0
    The surplus M915s will be a mixed batch.. the original and A1 model were built by Oshkosh... IIRC, the original had that mechanical Cat 16 speed transmission and a BCIII, whereas the A1 had the BCIV and the Allison. I believe it was A3 where they went to the Freightliner bodies, with the A3 having the DD60 and the Allison, then the A4 had electronic controls added to the BCIV out of the A1, and they used the transmission and axles from the A1... don't know if the add-on electronics were SAE J1708 compatible or not... I wasn't in transportation when I was in the Army, so I didn't deal with these vehicles firsthand, and I might have the marks mixed up.
    I'd look for as few proprietary parts as possible... Macks were great trucks prior to the Volvo buyout, but used a lot of proprietary components.. even if you have a Volvo dealership close by, I've never known them to stock parts for the E Tech and earlier Mack models.
    The T600 seems to be popular with various farms here in Colorado, and it's a pretty good choice of truck. Model years range from all mechanical to the last set of emission standards before the DPF came into play. Non-body parts are common across a range of models, and many parts are still common to other models from KW which either remained in production later or are still in production.
     
    totalnoob Thanks this.
  6. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

    4,534
    6,597
    Aug 26, 2014
    0
    Good old low mileage trucks are hard to find so you may wish to broaden your scope. I agree with the Bulldog , excellent advice, and I would not turn my noise up at a 3406. Also check into government auctions, sometimes deals come up on forestry trucks and such. The first round of electronic engines were not that bad, the T800 11.1 here with a gillion miles just will not die. That includes N14,s 12.7,s 3406E,s and maybe ISM,s. If your heavy is under 65,000 gross I would consider more engines in the bidding. If you are hauling fertilizer it works on any steel cab in time.
     
  7. granhawler

    granhawler Light Load Member

    296
    56
    Feb 26, 2011
    0
    If your looking for a good farm truck go look at a western star. They have good ground clearance for pulling in & out of soft fields, spacious cab, great build quality & most are reasononably priced 'cause it's not a paccar product.
     
  8. totalnoob

    totalnoob Bobtail Member

    13
    0
    Jan 12, 2014
    Minnesota
    0
    Sorry if my responses are slow, but it's a slow research project. :) I'm out of town for weeks at a time (but not class 8 driving) and can only post when I drop home every 2-3 weeks.

    Well my rural location wont be super-near anything but i'm regularily and will continue to regularily be in the Twin Cities metro so i'm not as worried about local parts availability I guess, just assumed anyone of note would be in a million plus metro. Perhaps more of concern is a breakdown while traveling that can't wait until home where it can sit til fixed, and my routes could run absolutely anywhere because it's entirely jobs of opportunity, though it's more favoring central to west than east. As long as they're still a well established truckmaker or ample junkyard supplies i'm looking for trucks that are like the Saturn SL or Chevy Celebrity of trucking - cheaper to fix, generally reliable, last longer than average.


    Noted. What i'd like to do is to start narrowing down some of those reputations but i'm not quite sure where to start. My biggest thing is keeping the truck on the road for the minimum total cost because I wont be using it with enough volume and it only pays for itself if the total cost of keeping it on the road is cheap enough. I've seen used class 8 semis for $1500-3500 in seemingly running condition, just old cabovers and such usually from the 80's and as long as I shouldn't be facing instant random failure without warning I was hoping repairs would obviously run less than the purchase price. And FWI that's not the max I can pay, that's just what made me notice old class 8's were cheaper than clapped out hotshotters, and I still cant move empty 53' air braked trailers on the latter which is one of the needs. As long as fuel is my biggest cost instead of repairs I can predict whether it's worth driving a given trip myself.

    I'm hoping the major parts (engine, transmission, axles) either shouldn't randomly die if I avoid trucks totally clapped out and if they're technically obsolete to modern drivers should be at least semi-affordable to replace, but i'm aware little parts or trouble spots could eat me alive just as much. So the better I research now i'm hoping to avoid long term problems. I mean what are the better truck makes/models that have a reputation for being reliable, cheaper to fix, easier to fix, used availability/heavy reliance on scrapyard parts, many parts in common availability instead of proprietary, etc. I'm aware that's a big wishlist but there will be trucks the opposite of all those things to avoid at least. The best truck is one just retired not for being totally worn out but because it's no longer state of the art for MPG and modern expectations. (maybe it's a cabover, maybe it's geared to run 55mph instead of 70mph, whatever)

    You mention Macks for off road prowess, although I don't think i'll be doing too much soft field mucking about. I'd rather have the ability than not but my biggest concern is feeling I can take it on a trip out to Oregon and back on a personal run without constant fears of a breakdown. Proprietary parts concern me - you say many parts Mack specific, which trucks have the most 'general' of parts? Are any others still easy to turn wrenches on?


    Thanks for the suggestion but it definately wont be only local hauling, I need something I can run 2000 miles on one way then back again with a load. Does that change it any? The difference is that I don't know if trips like that will happen more than a dozen or two dozen times in the next ten years so the economics of a newer rig doesn't work out. Yet even runs maybe 500 miles away would have me more concerned about reliability than something totally local (if that might be a concern). AC doesnt bother me, luxury neither when i'm considering paint shaker cabovers. In general I have a concern about military trucks having seen how clapped out many are unless they were on-road-only non-combat use or something and sharing parts with normal rigs. I'd think the 6x6 and Allison mileage would also take a dive over a long haul road rig unless i'm looking at the wrong models there/i looked at conventional tractors. (that said i'll agree they seem to be amazingly low miles and cheap otherwise but I was warned hummers can be totally clapped at 20k miles by an army guy...)

    I'll keep it in mind but would like to know where to research more if you have suggestions.


    Heavy should be notably under 65k gross. I'm not too locked into low mileage, somethings that has had an overhaul is fine as long as the compression is good, not obviously abused, aren't obvious leaks and such and it's a model known for being a million mile engine. (what else should I be checking, even if it's just a pre-check before letting a pro mechanic look at it before confirming a sale?) I'm really preferring mechanical injection - all electronics are just one more thing to break and even if it gives me 1/2mpg more that's not worth it to me - driving 55mph and aerodynamically modifying the truck can get me way more than that back. I don't mind older transmissions and axles just hoping servicing them could be cheaper if ever needed, back when double/triple overdrives were the norm instead of the direct drives everyone wants now.

    I can't find anyone say anything bad about the Big Cam engines, though i'm curious what else might be in that era comparable (other "million mile engines") in the era just before those you mentioned. My dad the fleet mechanic raised me to love detroit 2 cycles but I know theyre not million mile engines and they've been out of use long enough overhaul prices and such have gone up to no cheaper than anything else at least. Caterpillars I know are great engines but not as good for DIY-ers due to special tools they apparently require, plus parts are $$$. I'm not sure if there were competitive engines outside the Big Three in the 80's.

    I'm assuming Roadrangers have existed forever and will continue to do so, should remain serviceable, and esp for lower demand ones (ie not the highest torque handling, or ratios more suited for 80's overdrives maybe) should cost less even for a whole replacement unit if it comes to that. I'd love a 13 speed if I could get one for better ratio selection. I'm not sure if other manuals are as good or as serviceable or as desirable as an Eaton Fuller or if they were just as common in the 80's.

    Thats the summary of my truck knowledge though and i'm not sure where to find other useful factoids about each make, model, brand reputation and similar. I'm kind of thinking 80's trucks will mostly be what i'm looking for - I can get mechanical injection, and prices are alot lower because theyre out of even second tier service whereas i've seen guys still running 90's trucks not infrequently since it sounds like they still get the mileage esp with the DD Series 60's. I'm just sure i'll never touch one of those for $3500 so i'm looking a little older. :- P I'm assuming 70's trucks would be no cheaper, harder to get parts for, less reliable, less efficient, and even underpowered for 55mph if a rockies run is in my future (and it is).
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2015
  9. allan5oh

    allan5oh Road Train Member

    1,557
    556
    Jan 6, 2010
    Winnipeg, mb
    0
    I'd go with a series 60 myself, maybe a freightliner classic. My dad sold his a few years ago for 8k.
     
  10. RustyBolt

    RustyBolt Road Train Member

    2,073
    3,334
    Feb 21, 2015
    Bement, IL
    0
    The truck you are looking for is EVERY O/O's dream. It wouldn't matter how ugly it was. A driver could afford to fix it up with all the money he isn't spending on repairs. Just imagine it fellas. After a couple years, a truck made entirely of chrome!

    Good luck to you totalnoob. And I do mean that.
     
  11. Accidental Trucker

    Accidental Trucker Road Train Member

    3,419
    7,651
    Jun 4, 2015
    0
    I'm in the same business as you (hauling farm commodities 'bout 900 miles from home, and back).

    My advise is to do the EXACT OPPOSITE of what you are thinking. Buy the most common thing out there, and every shop and roadside service truck can work on it. Generally, Internationals are a good bit cheaper, because the interiors come apart -- but not that much quicker than a freightliner. Kenworths, Petes and Volvo's hold up better. Stay away from the emissions engines, unless you are willing to overhaul and do a delete.

    Don't be too afraid of the miles. A standard overhaul on a Detroit or Cummins n-14 can be done for about 12K if you shop the job around -- especially in farm country in the winter! Shops around here will charge twice in the summer what they can get in winter. Look for a truck that is well taken care of, and just figure you will learn about replacing brake lines, fuel lines, radiator hoses, etc, etc, etc. None of it is particularly complicated, but none of it is cheap. Running a class 8 truck is not for the timid. It just costs what it costs.
     
    daf105paccar Thanks this.
  • Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.