3406b Timing Cover Removal

Is there a trick to separating the cover on the 3406b motor - I have all the bolts out, balancer off, radiator and everything out of the way in the front and the outer cover won't pull forward from the inner cover. I know the gears are set in front of the inner cover or plate, so that won't come off this way, but the outer cover needs to so I can set the motor and it seems like there's no good place to get a separation. Usually even when they're kinda stuck you can get a screwdriver or prybar in somewhere around the edge. I don't want to end up cracking the cover beating on it. Any ideas of what might hold it up?

 

I did find the bolts that are coming in back to front from around the air compressor (removed) and the injection pump (still attached at the block and the rear cover, but all the long bolts that go through removed). Yes, the fan hub is off and the balancer as well as all the pumps. The water pump is removed now just to give a better view of what's back there and the front engine mount. I can get a prybar in between the front and rear plates where the water pump once was, but it won't even flex away at the top where there are the two bolts (removed) right in front of where the head was (also removed, cracked). I do have to set the motor, but I have to drop the crank in the end to get out the burned pistons, bad rings and sleeves. This motor's pretty trashed. Usually a timing cover just comes right off with a little prybar, but this one's a little stuck and I've not dealt with these manual motors much at all. The covers I'm used to are smaller, so I thought maybe it was seized from the heat or something. Does the injection pump have to come out? I thought that would have to be timed as well, so I'd need the cover off prior in order to set the timing on it, but I could be wrong. I'm used to sensors telling it when to send fuel, not these gears. I'll try to take a picture of where it is and see if it comes out. This laptop doesn't take the best photos sometimes.

 

Like I said it's kinda weak for a camera on this thing, but everything is off the front and the rear plate is actually bending back because the front plate is so stuck...

 

And looking at mine and the removed covers people are selling, the only thing I can see is the 2 studs that I still have in mine where the lower holes of the fan hub sat, but they're studs, not bolts. You don't actually have to extract studs out of the cover to remove it do you? Seems like it'd be bolts if you needed to take them out, but not so sure now.

 

I wish I could get them to get me one! I've been asking for a 3406B and C15 and Mack E7 book for ages! But ultimately it's not my truck, and since I specialize in electrical and electronic engine diag, I doubt to ever work on one of these again. At least I sure hope not.

As far as the bolts holding it in, though, talking it through did help. Yes, the two studs did have to be extracted (they are visible at the top of my second picture). Also, there is one of the injection pump bolts, the one at the lower left side of the flange, that extends into the front cover even though it doesn't appear to and there are evenly spaced bolts otherwise that appear to be the only ones. I can't get a picture of that one because it's behind the frame and below a bunch of lines. I had to break it loose from the bottom and then use a 9/16 with a universal and a 9" extension to pull it the rest of the way in a reasonable amount of time. These were the "hidden" bolts for me so to speak. I wanted to give a final on it just in case someone else has the same issue with the same job, maybe it'll help.