Just got my truck back yesterday. Its been down for 1 1/2 months. The frame has rust spots from under the sleeper to all the way back. Man these trucks do not like to sit for too long at all. I had some minor spots I touched up with rust preventative primer last year. This takes the cake.
My APU set up should be done this weekend,.. and I have a load ready to go on Mon or Tues, my wife is coming out with me and we plan to stay out on the road till Sept/Oct.
Short of sand blasting the frame (I dont have time for that right now),.. what would you guys recommend?
I have some sanders,.. I was thinking I could rough sand them and get the loose bits of painted rust off and just brush on some of that purple Stop Rust stuff and then rattle can some rustolium over that.
What are some good products to use as a temporary quick fix (Band Aid) till I get back and can get a permanent solution done?
Thanks,..
Hurst
Rust
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Hurst, Jun 12, 2015.
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Pretty much what you said. A wire wheel on a drill then feather the edges. That's about the fastest.
Hurst Thanks this. -
Second on the wire wheel, just try to only hit the bad areas then Stop Rust...
You can either use Rustolium or a 2 part Epoxy -
I know you don't want to here it, but the best and fastest way is to sandblast, primer & paint.
It will last a long time. -
Thank guys. I have a couple cordless and corded drills to wire wheel the rough spots.
Just need it to hang in and not look so nasty for the summer. I have a 10 gallon air compressor,.. should be enough to handle a rented sand blaster. I'll strip the frame down to bare metal when I get back home. No way I'll run next winter with the way it is now.
Amazing how quick it turns on you. I mean it was like an over night difference from mid April to now. I am good about hitting the truck wash at least once a week and I always get the under carriage done on the truck and trailer.
I had some minor rust pop up here and there,.. just nothing like this. Looks like a ghetto city truck that hauls containers and the owner is just going to run the truck into the ground. I dont want to give off that impression to anyone. I've put a lot of money into this truck mechanically. Never really worried about cosmetics till now. Kinda freaked out when I saw it.
Thanks again.
Hurst -
What type truck you got my Kw frame has been painted once needs it again my Freightliner looks like new yet only one year diff between the two and freightliner didn't get washed as often as kw. You could use a rust convertor brush it on turns rust into a black gummy surface then top off with rustolium till you get chance to sand blast it.
Strider Thanks this. -
If you have a die grinder those stick on scotch brite discs would do a good job also
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Its a 2005 Columbia, C15, 10spd. I do flatbed and have a large headache rack on the back.
I had a guy back into my nose while parked at a Loves in Nashville. I brought it back down to Fla for repairs. I also had the 5th wheel replaced and some trailer work done. Truck basically sat from April 27th till just the other day.
I run all 48,.. so its never in just one region. I follow the money so to speak. I'll run the snow belt or run the south. Depends which lanes are paying the best.
Has been a really great truck. No mechanical issues what so ever. Has over 1.2 million mi so far. Plan to deal with the rust today. All I need is a temp fix to last the summer. When I get back to Fla in Sept I'll have it looking brand new again.
Hurst -
You can use a putty knife and knock the big chunks off if there are any, then sand or wire wheel to get it ready to spot paint it.
OLDSKOOLERnWV and Hurst Thank this. -
This is what i use for any rust removal. You can really lean into them and make them bite. Another benefit to this style vs a standard wire wheel on a drill is you aren't flinging those tiny wires towards your face when they come out.
Last edited: Jun 13, 2015
ReeferOhio, Oscar the KW and Hurst Thank this. -
I have had real good luck with POR-15, expensive but I've never had rust come through. Follow the directions, get all the prep stuff, etc.- bomb proof if applied right IMHO. I hit the bad areas with a needle scaler, seems to work.
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