C15 valve lashings...AGAIN?!?!

never mind you beat me to it.

 

My thought was on the acert,you have to let the oil bleed out of the actuators. But there went my theory.

 

you should but you can just back out the adjustment screw all the way then adjust.

 

ok now the whole story is revealed! so what your saying is there isn't a timing pin hole in the flywheel?

 

the only other way I can think of is to remove the cam timing gear cover and line up the timing marks but make sure the right valves are loose at the right sequence. then take a drill and drill a little into the flywheel to mark so you can drop pin in. or just paint pencil a mark on damper in relation with belts to mark the correct position. I willin to bet you were off on the timing when you adjusted them.

 

ok when on tdc intake and exhaust will be loose on #1 cylinder. you have to account for gear back lash on engine if you didn't rotate like cat recommends. the gear lash wasn't addressed and even though you looked at lobe the timing may have been off enough to throw you off even if the lobes looked in the right place. it doesn't take much. when you had your helper rotate the wheel did he rotate in the direction the engine turns? if not you were off timing.

 

It shouldn't, as long as the cam lobe for the valve that you adjusted was on the base circle, you should have been fine. Did you back off the Jakes before adjusting the exhaust valves, then adjust the Jakes? I have seen the adjuster tips wear. Since the adjuster tip is larger than contact point of the bridge, it wears concave. And since the feeler gauge is wide enough to bridge that wear, you end up with too much clearance. If you have a dial indicator, double check the lash with that. If actual lash is more than what your feeler gauge says (and your feeler gauges are correct), pull the rockers and look at the adjusters. If they are worn, you'll need to replace them.