2010 maxforce 13 will not do passive regen.

Differential pressure tubes clogged

 

This is one of the things you can see in the snapshot data from a 0-60 test.

 

She did something different today, DPF light came on (phase 1), DPF light flashing(phase 2), DPF light back to solid(phase 1), DPF light went out, never had that happen before. Pressure differential tubes were clogged and cleaned, could the pressure sensor need cleaning or replace? $675.00 later and I've got the same problem, and doing all the homework!

 

Those tubes should not allow soot to travel up to the sensor, only pressure builds inside those tubes, not gas movement. From your description, all I can tell you is that it was working to bring level 2 down to level 1 and then clear. If you are on the highway consistently, and it goes from level 1 to 2 I would say it is having a hard time starting, or not doing one at all. We have seen the body controller and engine ecm get confused with each other and no allow a regen because of false inhibitor signals. I also know if the fuel pressure is slightly too high the regen will not start. There is a wide grey area between the fuel pressure too high to start a regen and when the fuel pressure will set a code for too high. This can be hard to spot as there is no diagnostics specifically for this. This is just what I have learned on my own. Normal fuel delivery pressure max allowable is 120 psi. Fuel pressure to the valve that runs the doser injector is actually an absolute sensor which takes into account atmospheric pressure too for some reason, so it always reads about 14 psi higher than fuel delivery pressure. If the doser fuel pressure is over about 135 psi, the regen will never start. The ecm just tries, but never starts it. This will go on until you reach level 4 regen and engine shut down. The engine will never log a code for this fuel pressure problem. The engine also runs normally. You need a laptop connected to it to see what is going on.

Also, MF13 engine have the worst dipstick design ever. It is very hard to tell what the "Actual" full mark is. If the engine is over full on oil, it will burn oil like crazy and plug up the DPF in no time. Burnt oil is too think to burn off properly in the dpf and will cause frequent regens. On the dip stick there are two notches cut into the side of it. Many customer confuse these notches for the low and high mark. These notches have absolutely nothing to do with oil level and are only calibration points during manufacturing. The full range is only the cross hatch, nothing else!!! Even the top of the cross hatch is starting to be overfull. The oil level should be ideally between the bottom third to half way up cross hatch. If you fill the engine to the top cut notch you are over filling by about 8-10 litres!!!

 

Truck just started whistle under load on passenger side...boost or exhaust leak?

 

After 32 miles it stopped?

 

Boost leak or high pressure turbo is on it's way out.

 

Im done, trading for Detroit or Cummins!

 

What do i need to check or test?
Can't keep giving dealer 120 an hour for no results!

 

Getting a hi low whistle like a siren. Could the boost actuator be loosing pressure, just trying to figure it out.