I would go used 4 sure. Under 30k. Have a 2500+ payment a month it is their every month. U have a 600 payment u don't have to be forced to run run run just to cover ur truck payment. Their some good trucks with 700,000 miles on them. Hit & miss game. But I'd gamble with a low truck payment so u don't have to live in the truck 24/7 to pay ur fixed cost. Fancy trucks that cost 150k are a joke. If I buy a truck its to make money not impress people. I have a life, & a family I enjoy. I'd never gamble 100+ on a truck. 30k & I fail wouldn't bankrupt me. Not a huge gamble. But a loan on a 130,000 truck is huge!!!! & id never ever ever do a lease purchase. Wow!... Ur paying off truck for the company & they can starve u out at anytime & u lose it & they got a truck you've paid for & it's all profit time for them now.
Lease new vs buy old?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by rockstar_nj, Jun 26, 2015.
Page 7 of 15
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
My rule is to have the cost of the replacement truck in savings. I didn't buy my own truck til I could afford to buy another if it tanked on me. You have $30k in savings? Then you're probably set. I just got mine back from the shop a couple months ago....it's a 2005 with 600k. The bill was $7,000. And that's a family repair discount!!! You gotta be able to make the payments, pay the repairs, AND replace the truck if you have to.
Tim_1326 Thanks this. -
I'd buy used for 1 reason. Every month I don't wanna 2500 payment. U cabt take time off & enjoy life. Payment always due. Get a payment well under a 1,000 & breath a little. Breaks, fix it. New trucks break 2. I use to sell cars. Never ever would I buy or tell someone to buy a new car. Horrible investment. Wait 3 or 4 yrs & buy it @ 1/2 new cost. Cause it's only new to u till u get use to it. That new wears off & ur still stuck with that "new" car big payment for 6 yrs. not my thing.
rank Thanks this. -
This has been a good post....IAm still undecided when I decide to buy probbley in the spring I will have around $150K to work with and my local bank says they will finance me for 2% if I put down 1/2 I am also a mechanic and will probably do 80% of my own repairs I have been looking at trucks and I am at an impasse on spending $20-$30k on a 2007 or older truck and paying cash then the motor pukes now you are into a 07 truck for $40-$50k...when I am finding 2012\2013s that can be bought for $50-$60k putting down 1/2 my payment would be around $500 pm that dosent seem bad or does it
-
03 to 07 was very bad years for engines. either go newer, like 2010+ or go 02 or older. As for the engine crapping, you could just rebuild it right away. An 02 or older Detroit can be done for about 2500 for a basic oem rebuild kit. Another 3 buys new injectors, turbo, and water pump.
-
I would not do my own inframe and I would do the head and turbo also that price sounds way too cheap is that parts only...and is that price for OEM parts I am not a fan of aftermarket parts for a major rebuild
-
That's oem. I did mine last fall, and I spent a LOT more, but I did a LOT more than a regular rebuild. I basically replaced everything from and including the crank, on up to the cam. practically bought a long block crate engine. Don't ask why, I'm still trying to figure that out. But a good portion of it was getting fed up with so many people telling me how a normal guy can't do a rebuild it has to be done in a shop with all those fancy tools.
there really isn't anything to it. A thousand times simpler than a small block Chevy. for a guy that's never owned up a big bore diesel, would be done start to finish in a week at the very most. Seriously dude, if you can change a u joint, you can rebuild a
Detroit. Stupid easy.
now granted I get a pretty good price on parts, been dealing with the same parts guy for almost 15 years and it's the same dealer I bought the truck from new.
Round numbers here, and a year memory when I can't remember my own phone number half the time, so use at you own risk.
Inframe kit 2000 this consist of head gasket and new head bolts, and 6 piston kits that each have the rings, liners, pistons, piston coolers and new wrist pins inside them. Must return your old pistons, sizable core charge on them being made out of precious metals.
Bearing kit 250. comes with both rods, and main bearings.
Six pack of injectors 1650
new head was 1800. Considering a valve kit alone costs 900 in parts, never send a head out to get redone, just buy a new one.
A lot of guys opt for a new water pump and oil pump, but it's really not necessary. Oil pumps on Detroit's just don't have anything in them to wear out. And the water pump is easy to get to so can change it later.
I dont have a price on the oem turbo cause I bought a Borg Warner for 900, I do remember the oem one being surprisingly cheap. But it's a waste gated one size fits all. I hate those. A good Borg Warner shoves in a lot more air and gives much better performance.earnies2 Thanks this. -
If you buy anything newer than '07 (and preferably older than '03.5) and I will come over there and smack you in the head.
Did you not read the recent post about the poor SOB that just bought a '12 and now he has to rebuild the engine because of a broken oil cooler? -
How did you check/set liner protrusion?
-
Well I will not buy an 08-11 because they don't use DEF and I might but a truck between 2000 & 2007 I did see a few nice T600 T2000 & a nice international 9400I that I would of bought l realize that buying Anny truck is a crap shoot and as far as coming over hear and slapping me in the back of the head I'll let my girlfriend know and she will be waiting in the driveway and I will post the beating on here for everyone to see........
And I must of missed the post that you mentioned
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 7 of 15