Now this is from memory, using the first one torqued as a reference point:
- top center
- bottom center
- 2nd to left of top
- 3rd to right of top
- 3rd to left of top
- 2nd to right of top
- 4th to left of top
- 1st to right of top
- 4th to right of top
- 1st to left of top
Retorquing the Lugnuts
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by camionneur, Feb 5, 2016.
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OMG, SERIOUSLY! !!
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OK, I tried it again, and the only issue is there can be two at top center depending on how the wheel is rotated, then I forget which one I went with. Now I think I'll torque the first one and thread another nut on there just enough to stay, so I don't lose track of my reference point. Then bottom center would be 5 over from that. Otherwise it only takes me about a minute to torque each wheel, like I was thinking (besides getting the wrench out, setting it up, winding the scale, unwinding, and putting it away, along with walking around the vehicle, so about 20 min on a good day for a long combination hub piloted 18 wheeler). I also double checked the front wheels that had been under torqued after another 300 mi, and they stayed tight, so apparently I'm the only one retorquing them.
Good workout though, gets me pumped for holding that steering wheel.
Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
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Also I don't actually need that ratchet adapter on there, whatever I was thinking, it's simple enough to spin a six point socket in one direction to fit a nut with the wrench parallel, or better to aim it low and ratchet up in position (and that particular torquer doesn't have a reversible ratchet, but a push through drive for going the other way, which I won't likely need to do).
I did end up using a 1/2 inch ratchet adapter on my smaller click type wrench, because its ratchet had rusted static in the trunk, and the adapter also makes for a 2-3/4 inch extension off the tire, so it's perfect for my car (even though it cost twice as much as the budget wrench, it could make that last several times longer).
I'd still like to test out the budget torque wrench + multiplier option, since I got one but that will take more setup than I care to screw around with at the moment. Maybe I'll try some torque seal next in the lab... wouldn't want to wear out my wrench if that works (and I'm thinking it's actually glorified Bondo, which is easier to obtain around here).Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
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omg this thread. Look for rust streaks on steel wheels. If there is none get in cab and drive.
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He has the opposite of ADD whatever dat is.
GrapeApe Thanks this. -
I have torqued lug nuts.
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You know, it should go without saying (except for half of the comments) that rest of this discussion amounted to eliminating all the guess work that goes along with maintenance on equipment involving various engineering specs, to find some tools for it (while considering what all is out there) and verify that they are staying accurate. I think this is especially important when I take on a task that people are certified to do professionally, so I can be sure of what I'm doing (or what not to do) as a professional myself.
That's just me, ironically as it may be typical, the biggest "what not to do" was to assume that a team of professionals were taking care of this as often as it should be done, because obviously they weren't when the first wheels I put a wrench on were under torqued, and those wheels in particular are what control this heavy truck's steering.
Go figure, but I already did.Last edited: Apr 10, 2016
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Here's a tip, when you have another thought and no one replied after your post, hit the edit button and stop double, triple and quadruple posting. Use multi-quote to reply to multiple people. This does NOT need to be 15 pages.rollin coal, swaan and kwswan Thank this.
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