Hello:
We have a 06 Int 8600 day cab. with about 250K on the clock. Last 8 VIN 6J299945. A/C compressor was shot, you could spin it with your fingers. We are doing a DIY replacement but we are having trouble recharging the system. We replaced the comp., dryer, all three pressure switches, and ALL the seals in the system. We blew through the evap. and condenser with no issues. The cab filter was replaced. In this service we found the fan clutch was week and replaced it along with the tensioner and the belts too.
We are having trouble getting the info we need for charging the system:
How much R134a does this system hold? The parts guy said 30 oz but another internet site reports 3 pounds is the correct charge.
Whats the oil level in the compressor and how do you check it?
How do you charge from cans? Do you make the engine fan run continuously and rev, engine to 1400 RPM to charge? We cant seem to get more than 2 1/2 cans in with engine at idel, set on max., and with shop fan blowing on condenser. The system is tight as a drum and held a great vacuum.
06 International 8600 day cab Air Conditioner info needed
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Fritzcoinc, Apr 27, 2016.
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First thing you want to do is cut open the receiver dryer and check for any metal. When a compressor lets go like that it can put metal though everything. If it did put metal through the system if you don't fix it right you will be back to square one with the same problem again. Evaporators can be flushed along with the lines, but the condenser cannot be flushed and should be replaced along with the expansion valve and dryer. Anyway, I can't help you with recharging by a can since all we use is a machine. The proper charge is actually 2.25 lbs with an expansion valve system or 1.9 lbs with an orifice tube system. Compressor should have about 6.75 oz in it. The proper way to correctly fill a compressor is to first completely empty it. Drain out all the oil into a clean container. You will have to rotate the drive to get all the oil out. Then you pour that oil into a measuring cup and measure 6.75 oz and then fill that into the compressor. The total system capacity is 10.16 oz. So usually the Evaporator has about 2 oz in it, condenser holds about 1 oz, dryer holds about 0.5 or so.
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Thanks for the reply.
We of course checked for metal and there was only a couple small flakes of aluminum on the orifice screen and we replaced the orifice too. We blew a little compressed air through the condenser and evaporator and both flowed freely. The compressor was more just worn out and didn't explode. You could easily spin the old compressor with one finger.
Compressor oil fill was done about like you described. Is there a way to " stick" the oil level in the mounted compressor?
Since posting we have filled the system from cans being very careful to weigh each can of R134 before and after to determine, as close as possible, the charge of 1.9 pounds.
At idle low side is 36 and high side 270 with a duct air temp. of 68. There was no compressor cycling and the engine fan did not engage. Today in Texas ambient is about 89 at around 70% humidity. The cooling is better on the road.
Sounds a little weak on cooling but we have never serviced a big truck before and don't know what to expect.
One thing we think we discovered is that this trucks engine does not have a thermostat as the engine temp. during the AC charging and testing did not rise above 140. Would this have any affect on the cooling? I'm thinking the low engine temp. may tell the computer to mix heater air into the AC stream to prevent freeze up.
Thanks again!! -
Engine temp will have nothing to do withe a/c. Orifice tube systems are not as cold as expansion valve systems. I would not be happy with 68. You might squeeze a few more degrees by shutting off the coolant to the heater core if it has taps. Also, with a restricted cab air filter it won't blow over the evaporator as easily and won't cool the best, so you may to try a new filter.
Fritzcoinc Thanks this. -
Thanks again for the help.
We have installed a new cab filter.
On the engine temp. question:
Shouldn't the engine hold a stead temp. of around 180/190? -
Yes, you are probably right about the thermostat being stuck open.
Fritzcoinc Thanks this. -
Thanks once again:
Where is the thermostat in the cooling system? -
Shows you have a Cummins ISM in that. Basically follow the top rad pipe to the engine at the front right hand side. There is a housing the rad pipe connects to. This housing has 4 bolts in it where it bolts to the head. Your thermostat is in there.
Fritzcoinc Thanks this. -
Thanks!!
Do these engines maintain a steady temp. like a gas engine?
Whats normal, 180/190?
You've been a big help, many thanks!!! -
Diesel engines are more thermally efficient at burning fuel to create motion. This is why they are a bit harder to warm up. They do not create hardly any excess heat at idle which is why it is common to idle them up a few hundred rpm when not moving. Yes, 180-190 is normal. Just like a gas engine, once you get 220 and higher or so you getting on the hot side. The engine probably would never get to 180 at idle only.
Fritzcoinc Thanks this.
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