Newbie with Cobra 29 LTD Classic

Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by TorqueRanger, Jul 4, 2016.

  1. TorqueRanger

    TorqueRanger Bobtail Member

    6
    1
    Jul 4, 2016
    0
    The other day I got a Cobra 29 LTD Classic that needed some repair.. The radio would receive some what but would shutdown on keying up.. Also the led was going bad and the meter bulb was out .. I am trying to order parts for the repair but I can't decide on green or blue display ?? But my main problem is I do quarry work and would like the most out of the radio (Distance)without using an amp because the CB radio might moved to different trucks.. Oh the trucks are using a Wilson 2000 antenna and quality coax cable too.. I am not looking for the crazy noises or such just clear and powerful radio.. Have any suggestions ??
    Oh hold do I know if I have a older or newer model ???

    Thanks


    I found this withe some leg work

    Cobra 29 LTD:

    Receive Boost: Locate pin 14 of the PLL chip, and the Positive (+) side of C-12. Install a 22k-220k ohm resistor between these two points. The smaller the value, the more the receive is boosted. Use CARE when soldering to the PLL chip! If desired, this mod may be wired through a switch.

    Supertune: Replace the stock final with a 2SC1969 unit. Solder a jumper across D8 (this may cause receive distortion at high volumes, remove jumper if it does). Solder a 68pf cap across C62. Solder a 68pf cap across C59 if there is already a 33pf across it. If there isn't, use 100pf instead. Replace R 55 with a 10-15k resistor, and solder a 33-55 pf cap across that resistor. Replace R58 with a 4.7 ohm resistor. Set VR4 just a bit to the right of half-way open. If D11 or C3 have been removed, replace them. D11 is a simple small-signal swithcing diode like a 1n147, and C3 is just a 1uf electrolytic. If TR18 has been removed or cut, replace with a 2SA733. Spread Open L12 a tiny bit, and adjust L16 for best swing, using a loud, steady "aaaaaaah" sound into the mic (or if you have a function generator, set it up for 1khz at about 16mv output, and use that. MAKE SURE to use heat-sink compound (a very light coating is sufficient) when mounting the new final, and MAKE SURE the final mount screw is tight!

    MOSFET Supertune (29LTD classic and newer): Replace stock final with IRF520 MOSFET transistor (pin-for-pin match when installing). Remove R56 and in its place install a 470-ohm resistor in series with a common switching diode (1n914 or similar), with the banded end of the diode towards the front of the radio. Remove C53 and solder it across C59. In C53's place solder a 3.3k resistor. Remove C 61 and solder it across C62. Remove R55 amd solder a 22pf cap in its place. Remove the slug from L14. Replace C71 with a 33-47uf cap. Turn VR4 (AMC) counterclockwise fully. Gently spread L13 and L12 and tweak the spreads for best PEP when modulated. Tweak L20 and L17 for best PEP when modulated. After tuning is finished, set VR4 to half-way.

    Note: Older 29's (LTD and GTL) use the same basic procedure, but instead of re-using the caps, place a 100pf across C62, a 68pf across C59, and 22pf across the spot where you removed R55.

    Channel 9 switch to Channel 19: Cut D32. Hard, huh?

    Radio comes in TX mode without mic plugged in: Check C117 and C118

    Channel display goes dead on key-up, little or no receive: Check TR23 for bad part or bad solder joints. Also check C119.
     
  2. Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.

  3. tech10171968

    tech10171968 Medium Load Member

    627
    851
    Nov 16, 2009
    Daytona Beach, FL
    0
    To get the most out of any radio, I would suggest working on your receive first. I always see everyone getting these fancy amps and kickers, and having their radios (over)modulated (don't even get me started on that!) But what good is a radio that can get 80 miles out when it can't hear anyone past 3 miles?

    But, yeah, this:
    Not surprising for an old unit. I used to be a UHF/VHF/800-Mhz Trunking radio tech, and I've seen bad solder joints wreak havoc on a unit's performance. Funny thing is, those solder joints won't always be so obvious; you might see something like a hairline fracture in the solder only visible with a magnifying glass, but that fracture will be enough to cause problems as the circuit heats up or cools down. Happens in all types of electronic gear, even laptops and cellphones. A real simple way to correct this is to simply take a soldering iron (no more than 40 watts - you don't want to end up frying any components) and "reflow" the joints by briefly applying heat to them. That's how I saved a friend's Galaxy 959DX from the junk heap/parts bin (and I earned a six-pack out of it, too).
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2016
    Reason for edit: spelling
    x1Heavy Thanks this.
  4. TorqueRanger

    TorqueRanger Bobtail Member

    6
    1
    Jul 4, 2016
    0
    What would you suggest??
     
  5. tech10171968

    tech10171968 Medium Load Member

    627
    851
    Nov 16, 2009
    Daytona Beach, FL
    0
    Hit your refresh button, I added some more thoughts to my original post.
     
  6. tech10171968

    tech10171968 Medium Load Member

    627
    851
    Nov 16, 2009
    Daytona Beach, FL
    0
    BTW, what are you driving? When people talk about not getting a lot of range, a lot of it has to do with antenna placement.
     
  7. TorqueRanger

    TorqueRanger Bobtail Member

    6
    1
    Jul 4, 2016
    0
    I drive a Mac CL dump truck.. Sorry it ain't no big rig but it pays the bills for my family..
     
    x1Heavy Thanks this.
  8. tech10171968

    tech10171968 Medium Load Member

    627
    851
    Nov 16, 2009
    Daytona Beach, FL
    0
    Well, the same principles still apply. In my rigs I've always liked running dual antennas, one on each mirror. Have a good splitter, and run exactly the same amount of coax to each from the radio. The truck's body is acting as a huge obstacle to the signal so you can probably imagine the advantage of running a whip on both sides of the cab. You've probably also noticed how a lot of guys will "bullhorn" their whips, too (tilting the antenna forward from the mirrors). It looks cool but doesn't do much for your signal in most cases. I used to have a slight tilt on mine because I used to run stainless steel whips; when the truck would get up to speed the wind resistance would bend the whips into an upright position; if I was using more solid antenna then I wouldn't do something like that.

    I've also seen a couple of guys running a single huge whip from behind the cab. I'm not sure that will work for a dump truck, but it seems to do the trick in a semi.
     
    rabbiporkchop Thanks this.
  9. TorqueRanger

    TorqueRanger Bobtail Member

    6
    1
    Jul 4, 2016
    0
    We run 1 whip on the driver side mirror and would like the dual antennas but they are not my trucks and not always in the same truck.. So hence why I am trying to mod radio .. I have looking around about the mods and there is alot of bad reports on the mods except for putting a 4700uf input filter cap.. But I will continue to search for better answers ..
     
  10. rabbiporkchop

    rabbiporkchop Road Train Member

    9,676
    6,525
    Feb 9, 2012
    Wapwallopen, Pa
    0
    No amount of radio modification will compensate for a crappy antenna system. Unfortunately that's one of the drawbacks of slip seating
     
    tech10171968 Thanks this.
  11. x1Heavy

    x1Heavy Road Train Member

    34,017
    42,130
    Mar 5, 2016
    White County, Arkansas
    0
    Stop saying sorry. You are working and it pays the bills. I don't care if you are running a 3500 dually pickup, you are doing what most people can only dream of doing.

    Im not here to cause problems, I quit apologizing for being a American long ago.
     
    TorqueRanger Thanks this.
  • Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.