I thought about the fifth wheel however I can't exceed 12k on steers per company policy and the last weight I gave I was either not on right or something
Weight problems of dry van load
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by Demonrogue, Aug 2, 2016.
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Usually each 5th wheel hole is worth 500lbs. You have that much available.
edit: When you weigh, set your tractor brakes or your trailer brakes. Not both. And release the service brake pedal. -
I will show everyone my cat scale tickets as soon as I get the chance to snap pictures of it
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Picture of what hole your in on your tandems too, from the front near the handle.
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Don't set Trailer brakes.
Many Air Ride Trailers dump/are set up to dump the Air in the bags right away, that will screw up the weight, not get accurate reading.
Even if the trailers are Spring or aren't set up to dump the air. Just a bad habit. -
He can fix it by just moving the tandems; dont even mess with your 5th wheel unless no other options.. Its a pain in the butt.
BoostedTeg, upallnite and x1Heavy Thank this. -
Why is the fifth wheel a pain? I've always found it easier to deal with than sliding trailer axles.
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why someone would recommend sliding the tandems forward 1 notch when he's already heavy is beyond me. And the op must have went overboard to go from 32,000 to 35,000
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Don't mess with the 5th wheel, pretend its stationary. If you can't get it with adjusting the tandems return to the shipper, with overweight and attempted adjustment proof (multiple overweight tickets).
I had a Proctor Gamble load, 3k heavy on the Drives, tandems all the way forward. Went back and they fixed it. Sure I slept 3 of the next 4 hours, was late on a JIT (just in time) load because of it... but was that really my problem?
My steers stay at about 10,900... and recently one of them is wearing funny. So I don't move the 5th wheel. Ever.Numb Thanks this. -
I usually tried to avoid moving 5th wheel. There is a particular location over the tractor drives where the nose of the trailer (Glad hands) are over the front edge of the first drive tires making for a nice consistent weight point that is usually legal.
If you slid tandems on trailer one or two holes you should get that 500 or so pounds onto the drives and be legal this way.
In my day trailers moved 500 or 750 per hole. I was taught recently that new trailers today can move as little as 250 per hole.
You are getting pretty close to legal very close actually, you should be able to get it.
When you weight that tractor trailer on the CAT don't set all your brakes, just the trolley to hold your trailer brakes only and allow all three plates on that CAT to float nicely. Just apply the trolley gently like lightly.
Im a little bit upset that your company bars anything over 12K on steers. You can put a little more on them without trouble.. but I think I best shut up here about steer weights because your company says do not go over 12K, I would be picking a fight I can't win with that problem.
Here is one more thing you can add to your tool kit, 4 individual Tandem rail pins that you can buy at Petro or similar. These large pins you can put into the trailer hole that you do not want to overrun when sliding by yourself (*Two goes into the holes on the rail you DO NOT want to pass...) and if I remember right, they will tap and fall out onto the ground when you get there as a clue you are finished sliding. Verify your trailer tandems are locked and then go reweight.Demonrogue Thanks this.
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