Iron is only quarter way to maximum allowed by the Detroit Lube Manual. Lead at 8 is a joke. Lead comes from various sources, and it only means a problem with bearings if there is also elevated levels of tin and chromium, which are also part of bearings. Bearings are multi metal items. Detroit doesn't consider an elevated iron level till it reaches the warning limit of 200 ppm. You are only a quarter of the way there. Lead doesn't reach warning limit till 30 ppm, again, you are less than a quarter of the way there. Potassium not until 150 ppm. Sodium can be tricky, as sodium is also used as an additive in many modern oils. You have to know the beginning level of sodium in the oil to know how much your engine is producing.
I would not worry about tearing open the engine. Track the samples and see how the trend lines develop.
Forget the Lucas Oil Snot. That is nothing but a oil thickener that has no beneficial additives of any kind. I have seen a batch of samples where folks sent in virgin LOS to have it tested an it is just a 180w base oil with no beneficial additives like friction modifiers, extreme pressure modifiers, detergents, anti corrosion and acid neutralizers, etc that are part of the additive packages of motor oils. If you want to thicken things up, just get a 15w50 or 20w50 oil and get all the beneficial additives that make up 20-25% of any motor oil. Leave the Lucas Oil Snot on the shelf.
high iron in oil sample
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by heavyhaulerss, Jul 26, 2016.
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I am fond of syn blends myself. Great results and good value.
Diesel Dave Thanks this. -
http://www.blackstone-labs.net/(w2rzi045vyscl055dxzv02yt)/oilreports.aspx?cid=H66109 trying to post lab results & comments last several oil changes.
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it opens when I click on it, maybe this will help others. thanks for all the advice. I have scheduled to drop truck off at shop wed & maybe they can tell me something by fri or next week monday. just want to have the truck ready by the fall to go wherever, whenever.
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truck is going in the shop today. 1 thing I noticed the coolant has a tint to it. coolant is about 4 months old. knowing the shop will dump it all & put new in, I always before dropping truck off would drain & keep the coolant for later use in several of my other vehicles. this time it did not look green like other times. looks like a reddish/green color. does that make sense?
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the shop told me the reddish color is prob due to the coolant additive that was put in. never thought of that, but that additive was a purple/ red color. they are going to put pressure test on sys & check mains & bearings.
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shop called today. after pressure test all night & more pressure testing today. they cannot find any coolant leaking or getting into the oil. there is no sign of it in oil. no milky residue anywhere. they say the mains & inserts have a date on them 09' so those are going to be replaced. since the oil cooler has never been touched , that will be rebuilt too. no more will be done until we can be sure of just what is needed. the current things being done may not need be at this time, but I consider it preventative maint. will continue to send oil samples out & keep up with changing trends.
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could an internal seal in the water pump cause the coolant to get into the oil? maybe when the internal parts are not moving it does not leak, so pressure test would not reveal it, but when engine is running ? detroit w.p. do have 2 seals 1 for the coolant side & 1 for the oil side, is this correct? I have had the weep hole leak oil before & coolant more than once over the last 18 years, but when the internal seal on one side or the other it would always leak out the weep hole, never leaked internal from oil to coolant or vise versa. just a thought. any opinions?
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