O4 379 MBN 24234 C15 Cat Poor fuel and power
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Rat, Aug 31, 2008.
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droy you NEED a different ecm buddy!!!! lol
They all did that i guess, talked to a buncha guys with the same issues when i first got mine, i did injector cut out tests to be sure and they all came back strong so i just ran it like that..... Sure was annoying as hell though! -
Ok I have been investigating this harness pack. Now I understand that with the ultimate pack it may give some smoke between shifts. How bad is it?
I think it is the turbo harness that does this, correct? If so should a person just go without the turbo harness and just do the fuel harness?
I would love the benefits of top end power and low end pulling grunt at the same time but not sure which harness to look at.
Which one will give me the best benefit in fuel economy and when pulling hills or in the wind? -
The fuel temp wire is the one that gives you the power, its 50-60hp, it wont cause it to smoke any. The boost wire causes the smoke as its telling the ecm it seeing over 8psi of boost all the time to eliminate the lag..... CAT dont open full fuel flow to the injectors till the ecm sees 8psi of boost so that boost wire AKA smoke wire gives instant throttle response by dumping fuel in as soon as you touch the throttle but gives 0 power.
Also you CANT use that boost wire on the MBN, just the fuel temp, the boost wire will cause the ecm to freak as it will see over 30psi with it. -
Thanks. I will just save a couple bucks and look into the fuel temp harness then.
I would rather make my own if I knew which wire to put the resistor in and new the exact wattage etc of the resistor.
Open up the stock harness, solder in resistor into the proper wire and close and seal it back up again. -
I never messed with that electrical stuff myself as i hate anything electrical so i cant tell ya. Whats good with the harness though is that its easily removable vs. soldering a resistor in.
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But soldering in a resistor would take me all of 30 min total and would cost me a buck or two at most.
I have been a mechanic for 20 years and also play with the inside of CBs so electrical is nothing for me. LOL -
You probably have the two wire fuel temp harness. In case you have the three wire, and want to try it-
First, the disclaimer...
I found this on another web site that I seldom frequent. I do not know if this trick works, nor do I know anyone who has tried it. IF I had the three wire setup, I WOULD try it, as I have gotten some pretty good info on that site also.
Fuel Temp wire harness modification:
(1) Cut the orange wire, leave it like that.
(2) Strip a bare spot on the black wire.
(3) Cut white wire, solder white wire toward sensor to the black wire.
(4)Solder 150 ohm resister to the other white wire, then solder the other end of resister to the black and white wire you soldered in step (3).
The poster stated that this was good for about 40 hp, and about .5mpg on his truck.
If any one comes across instructions on how to do a two wire fuel temp harness, I'd appreciate them letting me in on it. I THINK I found an electrical supply house that sells electrical plugs that are compatable with the Cat wiring plugs, so a fellow could rig up a stinger to just plug into the harness. Going to order a couple, and check them out. -
Its a 2 wire deal, all 70 pin ecm'd trucks are, the older 40 pin were 3 wire, unless the 2WS 3406E 70 pin is 3 wire but doubt it.
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The valve adj should help your mpg. Running a gear down will cost you fuel! So, stay in top gear whenever possible. Also , you need to progressively shift it, under 40 mph you don't need anything more than 1500. Once your in top gear and running in rolloing terrain, let the engine pull down to 1200 rpm beforeyou downshift, you'll find a lot of those hills won't require downshifts. Remember, on a Cat your foot is asking for rpm, on the volvo your foot is asking for power....point here is the difference between Cat's full range governor and Volvo's Min-Max govenor.
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