In addition to the headache rack you may need to install a second pigtail for the dump valve to lift (or at least deflate the airbags on the front or back axle). Install steps on at least one side for easy climbing up to the catwalk and onto your deck. Install at least one side box on the tractor just ahead of the steps, or get the side box with the steps built in the box.
If you have low clearance on your fuel tanks you need to get new tanks to increase ground clearance and get rid of the ground effects. Low hanging tanks and ground effects don't do well off road, and with flatbed you will likely encounter job sides with deep mud and ruts.
As mentioned earlier you normally have the fifth wheel slid all the way back. This exposes most or all of your front drives, which means you will be throwing a LOT of mud on the back of your cab and headache rack UNLESS you install full fenders on your drives. The owner of my truck hasn't done that and it's a major PITA to pull chains out of six inches of solidified concrete mud in the bottom of the headache rack, and the chains rust and look bad.
Beyond getting the tractor flatbed ready you THEN need to purchase straps, chains, binders, dunnage, winch bar, bungies, and tarps as a starter kit for securement. If you are going to lease to a company they should provide you with the minimum requirements list and may give you a deal on a starter set.
Edited to add: it may be better to simply get a truck that is already set up for flatbed. Another consideration is the drive train. Just this month my owner took out the 10 speed and installed a 13 speed. That makes a huge difference, with lots of overlap to be in peak horsepower at any speed.
What does it mean to get a semi "flatbed ready"?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Drtro, Sep 24, 2016.
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Where in VA are you?
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Currently living in Waynesboro, but would like to move down towards the beach eventually.
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Just talked with a new prime driver and he made that same statement.
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12 4" Straps
12 Chains
12 Binders
Tarps (must cover 8x48 load)
24(each) steel and plastic edge protectors
100 tarp straps
3 sets of coil securement (racks, belting, and timbers)
OD equipment
With that and a headache rack, how much would I be looking at? That's the minimum requirement.Airborne Thanks this. -
Theres a few flatbeders here, but over in the flatbed forum you can get more accurate estimates and choices of where to buy...
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Good? Don't know. But Swift does flatbed too.
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I think Flatbed ready means no mirrors, cuz they seldom back up.
RedRover, Drtro and street beater Thank this. -
Hey friend, do this: Go get into a company gig and run for a year or so first. Learn the ropes and better your craft in someone else's rig. You will meet people, AND find equipment deals.
There is a big difference between a flat O/O and a company driver. You don't just want to buy a truck and make it work. You don't want to use these entry level companies as a standard either.
Lots of guys do, however. Go and look at a van truck...notice how the trailer is sucked up to the back of the tractor. No room for a headache rack. Wouldn't you hate to buy a truck and then realize that you cannot use it for what you bought it for?
Wheelbase
Engine make and hp
Transmission
Gear ratios
When I was a company driver, my company rig weighed 29000 lbs. I am 44000 empty with my truck and a stretch Rgn. I used to carry 11 tarps. There were some loads that were wide, long, and tall and the customer wanted it tarped. I've had quite a few $1000 tarp jobs. Had one $1600 job. Lot of the stuff I started with, I picked up as a company driver. These big companies throw lots and lots of gear in the trash. I'd go dumpster diving. A chain loses a hook, they'd toss them. I'd pull the chains out and cut them to 4 ft sections, add hooks on either end and make cheater chain. Use old tarps to repair and patch mine. Mudflap by the ton.
I bought my first headache rack, open rack, for $150. My next one was a 3 door rack, practically brand new, with a lumber tarp set, for $300 from a Landstar driver. I always keep my radio on and if someone is selling, I just might buy.
Along the way, I got rid of a lot of gear too. I don't haul steel anymore. Don't haul coils, don't haul pipe, don't haul lumber, got rid of all the 5/16 Dog chain and all 5/16 binders. Don't need V boards and I don't carry dunnage.
I run 1 set of binders for both 3/8 and 1/2 chain. Binders have a 13000lb WLL. Gotta save weight somewheres, right?
Anyways, while in a company truck, you will learn what you need more of and what will be useless to you.Airborne, PouringBeard, Chewy352 and 3 others Thank this. -
Thanks for all the helpful information. I don't plan on jumping straight into my own truck anytime soon. I plan to be a company driver for 2-3 years. Save up ~$50-60K and buy a used $25-30K truck or put $25-30K down and have some working capital.
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