Future advice

So you must be the one who blinds other cars/trucks on highway at night.

 

Lol I was going to say the same thing.

 

Actually no. I promise.

 

I tested it by standing in front of it and staring at it from different angles. It was acceptable. I have not noticed that many retaliatory bright lights turn ons on the road either.

 

It wouldn't hurt to give them cash offer and see if they drop price or if they;ll add something to the truck ie new drive tires, new fluids, etc.

 

You guys are frinkn funny.

OK here we go again.

Want good advice OP?

Listen!​

IT IS NOT important what kind of truck you get in the brand or what color it is, it is important you ...

1) find one that fits your needs with the drive train

2) check it out right (see below) to make sure that it will last

the brand, the model and all of that is not important other than your pride.

Trucks are not cars, you don't hop down to the local dealer on the corner pick a pretty blue one and then start driving it. It takes time, and patients to find and check it out right.

Here is something I posted early this month, read it a couple times.



Before you do anything read this carefully.

From this thread

http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...ne-delt-with-otr-leasing.245383/#post-5495187

OTRReeferRunner wrote this and he is right in target.

FYI! A lot of problems could have been avoided if you guys would have spend the extra $1000 or so to get the truck fully checked out! That is why you should have a 3rd party repable diesel mechanic or dealership check the truck out from the front bumper to the rear mud flaps! The following things a the least should have been done before you took procession of the truck:

1. Oil samples (detects any internal problems with engine, transmission, and rearends)
2. ECU download (detects fault codes, idle hours, actual miles on the truck, and etc.,)
3. Blowby Test (piston & rings, compression test and etc.,)
4. Dyno test ( a full report on the complete health of the engine)
5. Obtain maintenance reports.

If you don't do the following things you are sure have serious problems with truck! Buying CMV is not like buying a regular passenger vehicle, just walk around it, kick the tires, drive it round the block and sign the paperwork! You are setting youself up for guarantee failure with this approach!

So you can get this.

The truck is spec'ed for the work you do, it does not matter what brand it is because they are all the same. But it does matter on what you are going to use it for.

The truck is cheap part. The repairs and maintaining it isn't.

There are a lot more trucks chasing owners than owners (potential or real) chasing trucks.

You have the check out costs on the front end to fix the problems and then negotiate the price if the truck is acceptable. I wrote up some really good info on how I buy a truck and what I did for a few on the last few used ones.

If you are not willing to put in the $400 to $1000 to check out a truck, then you are asking for problems down the road.

I have bought trucks for $5k and I ran them for 5 years. On the other hand I have junked a couple trucks that were in better shape than those selling for $20 or $30k I've seen advertised.

So a truck is a tool, don't get wrapped up in it, it is just a tool.

AND I am going to add something else about how to buy a truck. Most people will not understand how to bargain, they go and give an offer that may get them into the truck but in fact they do it wrong. I don't remember which example I used here in the past, I've done this a bunch of times so I will use one I can remember well. I had bought a 2012 WS 4900 a while back that was sitting on a lot in Nebraska for 4 months. The asking price was $69k. I drove out there, spent the day in Lincoln at the Surplus center and a couple other places and then hit the dealer. I took it for a test drive, took it to another dealer to be checked, pulled oil and sent that to Blackstone and so on. I spent about 820 in checking it out and another 500 or so in transportation/lodging costs. I found a lot of little issues that needed to be fixed and then got quotes for fixing these issues which amounted to $15k.

I went back to the dealer who was selling it and said I would take the truck off his hands for $48k and he laughed, so I told him what I found and why the offer is a fair one, it wasn't road ready to me, needed to be fixed and it doesn't matter what he is asking for it that's my offer. He wasted my time for ten minutes while he talked up the truck and I finally told him I know all about WS, I've got a few. I told him to counter offer which he did at $59, I said nope - $50k and told him he throws in a case of filters for oil changes and fills the tanks up for a trip home - I got it for $50k.

Why is this important?

Because it has to do with the dishonesty of the dealer or people selling the truck. People can go through maintenance records but if they don't know what to look for, it is useless. The same with a vin check, if there are any outstanding recalls, those have to be added into the down time in future. I could go on and on but I think you guys get the picture.

 

Arrow here in Phoenix has some 780's on their lot-former Ashley Furniture trucks. Might want to look into those, easy life hauling furniture!

 

Put the 50K in a bank. Will come out better in long run.