Inverter Mystery..

Well, you decide to play stubborn.
Please, don't use this shield all those highly qualified electrical engineers were all wrong and you were right...They didn't post here anything, I don't know who they are, their qualification.
Only you and I, OK?
Here is what you are saying

The frame is not conductor despite frame has same electrical potential as a negative battery post. If you using frame as a conductor the electrochemical corrosion will destroy in few seasons. Especially aluminum alloy/steel composite frames. The only exception I know is cheap household trailers, bikes.
All trucks ( we are talking about trucks here, right?) negative circuits are -
1. From battery terminal to starter (-) post > to engine > frame
2. From battery terminal to cab pass thru connector and inside the cab distributes between modules and power consumers ( cigarette lighter, power socket, cab lights, AC module, ABS module)
3. From battery terminal to ECM module
4. Cab to frame link.
If you need more information I can post the wiring diagram or pictures for better understanding.
Next pearl.
You are saying

Georg Simon Ohm must be turning in the coffin.
Current will drop, heat will creates at the contact point.
Next.

Please do not mix cars and trucks. It will confuse people and mistakes are easy way to turn truck into the ash.
My best regards.

 

Specially for you

 

Heat if you do not have a good metal to metal connection. All trucks run the negative right to frame. Metal is a conductor. Gold is a metal and it conducts quite well.

They may not post here, but I see millions of cars and trucks on the road running fine without the frames falling apart from metal fatigue due to a negative lead attached to the frame. Funny how all the lights on a truck use the frame as the ground.

Prove this.. -electrochemical corrosion will destroy in few seasons,, On boats you use zinc as the sacrificial metal for this in saltwater since saltwater will conduct. I see hundreds if not thousands of trucks still going strong without the frames being eaten away...

Again... do you not think the thousands of electrical engineers have looked at this from the start of cars and trucks... The body on my jeep is aluminum and they have the negative lead going to frame.

The starter most of the time will get its negative side from being hooked to the engine which is grounded to the frame..

I see you two must think that the entire world is wrong and you need hundreds of black wires hooked to the actual battery terminal for a vehicle to operate in the electrical world.

 

OK I give, you are right Mark, so next time I am at GM I will run over my old boss because he insisted my masters in electrical engineering was a good one, even though it was acquired in a foreign country.

 

School and practical applications are two different things. I worked with systems that drew 30 amps constant for radio systems and they were grounded to the mount and the mount to the frame... battery was set for 24 volts, but still the battery negative was to the frame. If that did not work right then you knew quite fast that you had a problem.. I have gotten hit by 900 volts and I have gotten many RF burns due to incorrect grounding... so my 20 years of working in electronics and electrical systems does count for something. I started off in tubes and finished up in IC's... Nothing is more scarier than working around metal tubes with 1600vdc on the plates and hope that the unit is grounded properly... Grounding was a priority in my line of work.. bad ground = dead.. do not pass go...

So wire your truck the way you want... but running a ground to frame so long as you have clean metal to metal contact will work and works well with no heating or voltage loss.

 

Agreed.

Here's the thing Mark, I am not really disputing your point as much as I am trying to offer a better way of doing it. I've been doing the high current/high voltage thing for years and know about failure points first hand, not through theory.

As for your experience, I'm happy to see someone who has done a lot.

I've been doing this for well over 40 years now, I have not just the education (which was gained to justify the experience) but also the work experience behind it.

So I get where you're coming from, and still dispute your use of the word - ground plane.

 

I used 2 guage welding cable for my ground and hot connection. I wasn't stupid enough to make the assumption the body was grounded to the frame and battery and was capable of handling 200 amps without a voltage drop, so I added a few 2 guage ground straps to connect body to frame and body to engine and body to fender.




Notice the spots to connect BOTH hot and ground wires.
There must be a bolt protruding from yours to attach a heavy ground wire.
( unless someone removed it )

 

My starter does not use the frame for its ground, it uses the negative side of the batteries for its ground. Most trucks do. Most trucks get their frame ground from the negitive terminal on the starter.

 

Have a 1500 wat inverter the problem is the wire that runs from the inverter to the inline fuse box got hot enough to melt the box

 

Can you show us a picture of the 2 battery cables connected to your starter? I've never seen such a thing.
Mine only has a positive cable.