First flatbed

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Hogleg, Mar 18, 2017.

  1. MrEd

    MrEd Road Train Member

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    I worked for a company that East flatbeds for a while. If that trailer is the same model as we had, good luck keeping the lights working. Wiring harnesses where too short or something. By the time we had those trailers a year or two the wiring harnesses were trash. Every time you loaded the trailer heavy enough to flatten the arch you could watch lights go out. Then it was time to find the broken wires and splice it up. Happened all the time. And it seems the arch would flatten really easy on those trailers too. I wasnt impressed by East trailers. I wouldn't buy one.
     
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  3. cnsper

    cnsper Road Train Member

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    Once hooked up to the trailer you measure from the center of the front drive axle to the center of the rear trailer axle then look at your state's bridge weight chart. If that distance is good for 68k you are good to go.
     
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  4. Hogleg

    Hogleg Medium Load Member

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    Understand bridge law. Thought he was referring to something structural about a 21 year old AL trailer. My bad.
     
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  5. dngrous_dime

    dngrous_dime Road Train Member

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    I thought he meant the same thing, about concentrated loads on the trailer.
     
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  6. noluck

    noluck Road Train Member

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    Quality advise!
     
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  7. KenworthGuyNH

    KenworthGuyNH Road Train Member

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    @Hogleg

    Buy it. Use it.

    Who owned it and how it was used is far more important than brand at this age and price point. Don't let the lack of abs worry you in the least and for the love of all things high and holy don't worry about the lights. Minor repairs are expected with equipment at this age; rest assured the wiring harness is all stretched out and relaxed by now.
     
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  8. Bean Jr.

    Bean Jr. Road Train Member

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    Plus remember your truck doesn't have it either.

    BTW, what did you wind up doing with the frame and rear axles?
     
  9. Hogleg

    Hogleg Medium Load Member

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    Got it opened up now. Frame does not look that bad. Lots of rust jacking right where the crossmember is mounted which is causing pressure on the member and cracking it along the bottom seam. Rest of crossmember is sound. Very little rust back where the seam is located. We are cleaning up the air and wiring now then will take it to a reputable shop close by to get their assessment.

    Here are some pics. Your thoughts?

     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
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  10. Bean Jr.

    Bean Jr. Road Train Member

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    I'm guessing the best idea would be to take the sleeve off the frame, bead blast it to get rid of the Rust, and put it back together with a new crossmember. That probably is the least expensive and labor intensive way of going about it.
     
  11. CharlieK

    CharlieK Medium Load Member

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    That's what I'd do... Take the sleeve off, pound off the rust chunks, and then abrasive blast it. But I'd just weld up the old crossmember instead of getting a new one... but, that's just me.
     
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