Sorry to do this to you guys, I know you get the same questions over and over. I love this site. I've researched and learned so much. Just figured I'd throw my situation out and see if I could get any advice on any of it.
-So far this is what I'm thinking.
I've got 2 yrs. otr with 1 flatbedding comp. I'm thinking of going o/o and getting on at landstar. Their recruiter sent paperwork and told me I met qualifications etc. I'll start checking into getting hazmat tomorrow.
I'm going to look at a 2003 fld12064t-classic freightshake with a 58" mid-roof 12.7liter 500 horse detroit. Has 721,000 on the odometer. The dealer is saying around $33k out the door with a job on the mains and something (trying to make me feel more comfortable with the miles- sorry can't even remember what the work was- will know more tom. when talk in person- a mechanic I am not- tho I learn quick.) I know how most feel about a freightshaker, trying to be realistic about my first truck.
I like the way landstar sounds and am hoping not to get to bored securing the same freight all the time like I did as a comp. guy. I like the challenge of varing things and take it all extremely serious. Thinking of having the wife at home working my loads and paperwork, etc. She's smart with money and keeps everything.
Please if you got the time drop any lines of wisdom to help a unkowing brother out. Don't be gentle, tell me what you think.
God Bless gentleman (and ladies)....be safe.
newb o/o truck and landstar advice?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Faber, Oct 13, 2008.
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At the time they were a good company. I paid off $30,000 in debt in two years while leased to them. Then that first round of fuel spikes occurred in January of 2000. I hung in there for six months, but I could not get an agent to pay a fuel surcharge. I did the math and figured that I wasn't making any more than an average company driver, so I left Landstar.
I'm sure owner/operators at Landstar are getting fuel surcharges now, but how good they are I don't know.
All that being said, if I were to want to get back into being an owner/operator I would at least talk to Landstar again and if the fuel surcharges were there I might be tempted to sign back up with them. I know the freight rates are there.
Regarding that truck your thinking of buying, I'll tell you my experience with my old truck.
I bought a 1993 International cabover in 1998. It had a little over 600,000 miles on it. They replaced the main bearings in the motor as a part of the deal. I gave $20,000 for the truck. The whole time I owned that truck I only had one problem with the motor and the drive line and that wasn't too costly- I had to replace an injector. However, everything else on the truck just fell apart. I put $17,000 in maintenence into it my first full year of driving it. Like you, I'm not much of a mechanic so I had to have most of the work done at shop rates on labor.
$33,000 for a truck with over 700,000 miles on it seems a little steep to me. I'd try to get them under 30k along with the work they said they do on the motor.Faber Thanks this. -
Thank you for taking the time to drop a line, and thanks ahead of time to anyone who does. Knowledge/experience are power- I appreciate you sharing yours. I was concerened about having that kind of exp. with a truck with that kind of miles.
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You are thinking of a rod and main bearing job, while it may help, especially if they are worn, id ask to see the old bearings.... To me it seems fishy that a dealer would up and just offer that work be done, maybe hes hiding something... If the rod bearings look scratched/gouged up id stay away from it, for all you know the engine could be done. 03 short hood classics can be had for under 30k with lower millage with a detroit, just shop around on truck paper. They may not need replacing, i would test drive the truck and with the engine warmed up at a steady cruising rpm of lets say 1500rpm watch the oil psi gauge, if it fluctuates a little then it needs the bearings. Thats first sign of wear, oil psi fluctuation.... Then again the shaker gauges are not to accurate but they should give ya an idea.
Sorry i cant help ya with landstar.Faber Thanks this. -
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You said it was a fld12064t claccis, the 120 meaning the BBC is 120", if it was a long nose it would be a fld13264t 132"BBC..... Bumper to back of cab. Look on truck paper, im sure you can find a better deal.
Visually by looking at the two, the 132 model will have the head lights mounted significantly lower in the fender, and behind the fender you will have lots more hood before it ends.Faber Thanks this. -
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any reason i can pick up one of these columbia's or century's for the same price as this classic with way less miles? Is the classic that much better or is it just a popular style thing?
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It holds value a bit better since its a traditional old school styled conventional. If you plan on working on the truck yourself do yourself a favor and dont get the century... Or better yet look into some higher end trucks like Petes and KWs.
Faber Thanks this. -
i agree,
spend more time shopping around,you will learn more about pricing and such.
right now it is a buyers market and the sales rep does not set the price of the used truck.i just looked at a 06 volvo 780 with 357K miles cummins 475 13 spd w/overdrive
advertised at 46,500 with 2 yr warranty last monday i offered them 39,900
and i want a full diagnostic done.
first he said that's not possible.tues they called and said o.k.
i said i might have found something better.
thur they called and said they would take 37,900
i have been in the market for a truck for2 month now and ill tell you this much
DONT BUY AT THE FIRST STOP. times are tough all over and that includes the dealer.The Challenger, Faber and Big Duker Thank this.
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