Did freightliner intentionally set out to make a crappy automatic transmission?

I have the DT12 and it good so far. I just have manual mode and eco/auto mode and it shifts 1000-1500 RPMs most time. If I get heavy or steep hill it will go to 1800 RPMs. It smooth shifting.

The auto engine brake is different because it keep the RPMs high it will downshift for maximum engine brake and turn up the RPMs to 2200-2300 RPMs. That take some getting use to but when it does the engine brake is very strong and will hold the truck back. You don't even need the brakes very much going downhill.

 

Why are you putting the foot dead on the floor like a bowling ball to jam the engine to 2100 Do you happen to be starting on a 15% grade? Most any truck with auto will know it's above max horse rpm an dgo ahead and shift up.

The one I had was a brand new Century 2001 with a rockwell paddle equipped automatic backed by a 500-550 detriot somehwere in there. The only problem that comes up is when you do not shut the rig off over a week. The auto bricks and requires a wrecker tow to shop until the head computer guru can cycle the power burron three

No matter what the load was, she would walk off in low or first and if your fuel pedal is correct while moving shifting up at aroud 1550 or so. click click click etc no problem. There might be a little lean now and then, however the bucking and twisting indicates excessive power application or abuse.

The only times I have that engine maxed out is when fighting headwinds, steep grades,and slide cars out of the way when necessary. But the steep grade demands you to be professional enough to stay between high Torque and high horsepower on your engine chart. And ease up the steepest grade all week long without destroying your engine.

When you say it's jaking brake down and loses RPM fast like a "Sick dinosaur hawking up a good vomit session, you are trying to use a advanced driving technique in which experienced drivers kick the engine down with the jake to catch the new gear up and walk away from everyone else.

Manual mode is good for mountain work. Pick a gear you can live with and have your 4 forces in balance overall that rig. When you do, you will understand that there isnt anything needed doing all the way to the bottom.

Finally regarding construction zones and such little slow downs, you show a attitude and I wonder if that right foot is too heavy to lift and use the service brake or trolley brake to slow properly to the designated new speed limit for that construction just ahead?

Is laziness the problem? I don't think so because you expend so much energy into writing a post I would like to see you convert that passion, that ... Kahn into a professional driver who owns it all and demands nothing more than respect among others.

But until you get it, please don't whine. It's unbecoming.

One final thought for you. When that engine is dead below 1000 rpm and coughing with no power, STOP banging on that fuel pedal. What you are actually doing is taking a 20 pound sledge hammer and smashing the pistons that are trying to come up and do it's work. The engine will break if you do this enough. Stop it. If you care even a little bit for engines in trucking deep inside your heart, you will learn to keep the rpms up, say 1300 or so.

Im not your enemy. I have to take a time to tell you what's what in this industry. And you are very fortunate to hear it from me. Rather than some monster shaking your teeth and bawling you out because you broke the truck.

Dispatchers do NOT give a #### about you. They always without fail say this....

What the *&^% did you do to MY truck?

Never mind the PTSD, three broken bones and a body cast on pain medicine IV etc. It's always about the precious truck.

 

Heavy, this is how they drive all the time, with or without a stick. 1st gear to the last is pedal to the floor. EVERY GEAR AFTER SHIFT IS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. Max load or deadhead, pedal to the floor. Then complain about what a POS the truck is.

 

Ive lived in POS trucks. But when you learn the engine's torque and horsepower curve and the appropriate RPM's you can get it moving within that range using progressive shifting instead of your standard pre-historic caveman club shifting.

 

So I've driven both 10-spd Manual and 10-spd-Automated (NOT DT12)...and I like the auto side of the game <<runs & hides>>

This is the way I do it.

1. Activate "High Engine Braking" once I start rolling
2. Activate cruise control
3. Get to speed (no mashing the go-pedal) normally
4. Hit the cruise set button @ 30mph
5. Ease off the go-pedal and use the "accel" button to get to desired speed

At construction sites/traffic flow, I use "cruise cancel" and let EB do its job, or apply service brake if needed.

Then I go back to step 5 (above) to return to cruise.

My question is: How hard is it for people to do the above? or I'm I also doing it wrong???

 

I just tried it in my Cascadia, and it does sound like a dinosaur choking on the bones of a deer it just ate! Lolololol! I have a 10 speed, though.