How to jumpstart a starter if there is no crank

Gotta remember, we are the "dumb rednecks" a lot of these "highly educated" folks look down on. When #### hits the fan, we are the ones that can McGyver stuff together and survive.

 

I can understand where @Ridgeline comes from in a lot of his posts. Him being an individual with several trucks (I'm guessing based on previous posts)I'm sure has had a few morons employed at some point. Last thing he probably wants is to deal with the loss of truck, trailer and load. Possibly a workers comp claim as well.




Don't get me wrong, I'm all for getting yourself out of a bind if its your own gear and you know what you're doing.

 

Now THAT sounds like fun! Particularly if you're sitting on the side lines with a cold one, rather than being either the screwdriver holder, or the folks the truck was about to run down.

Seems like moving your truck first would be the ONLY intelligent thing to do. The other rig is already on fire, and the chances of containing it with a little fire extinguisher out of your truck is very remote.

Hey, as you know, I was just giving you crap. I absolutely agree with a safety attitude. Hell, I've always been safety conscious, but could still manage to screw myself up royally. If I had the typical "hold my beer, watch this" attitude, I'd be dead by now, I'm sure.
The thing is, that it doesn't much matter what you are doing around a truck, (or for that matter around electricity,) if you don't KNOW what you are doing, you run quite a risk.
OBTW, I described jumping a big fork lift in an earlier post. I knew both the owner, and the fork lift. And that was the way you got it started. I'd hauled that thing for him a number of times.

Wait a minute! That can't be right, the professor is wearing safety goggles!

 

But he's wearing a metal watch on both wrists so it offsets the goggles

 

Any time I jump stuff I use a fuse holder with terminals or aligator clips on the leads. At least then if something goes wrong, the fuse should blow before any damage occurs.

 

if low voltage to the starter is the problem... you can always wire the batteries in series temporarily provided the amperage is decent

 

Who has time to wire up the battries?

I call road service at that point and drag it into the shop.

My point is safety first and many forget that.

See I run on this premise that most drivers on the road are dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to the mechanics of the truck, many - I mean many - barely pass the super simple air brake portion of the license exam and you expect them to do repairs on the side of the road or in the t/s like this, that is why there are repair shops.

Here is something I've found a bunch of times. A drive not knowing how to check their oil and on some engines they have an oil cutoff to prevent the truck from starting if it is low. So dummy driver gets out and jumps the starter, risking a fire or something else because he doesn't check the oil. I've got a friend who would sell a gallon of oil for $20 to these guys who are stuck on stupid, he also showed them how to properly check the oil, he said he walked away a few times but most of the time they would scream and the hand him a 20. I asked him why, he said they will remember next time to check the oil and won't run out, this was when oil was $5 gallon.

 

And this ... they can not "ticket" on this level of accuracy, however they could perhaps toll-charge to assign to a particular weight class group.

FAQs - Weigh-in-Motion Highway Systems from Cardinal Scale

And I suspect these systems go out of spec calibration REAL FAST once beaten thousands of times every day. And the temperature affect variance, damage from water and salt, etc? No way these will hold up in court if/when push comes to shove.

And how many of these have you seen where road surface buckling begins occurring leading up to the w-I-m plate? These readings are useless when a heavy truck is literally bouncing across them

 

Then what? As soon as it starts you'll have to shut it down to reconnect the batteries for 12 volts. Disconnect the batteries while running has a very good chance of cooking the alternator or ECM. Not to mention cooking lights and other electronic components trying to run a 12 volt system on 24 or 48 volts. That's just asking for trouble.