Before buying checklist? First Truck.

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Driver0000, Jun 29, 2017.

  1. T-BoneX

    T-BoneX Light Load Member

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    Would you with that test and a 3rd party mechanic looking over it and giving a thumbs up that the major components like engine/transmission/heads would give you inleast a good 6 months?

    Not meaning to hijack thread
     
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  3. Driver0000

    Driver0000 Medium Load Member

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    Well, it's a gamble. There's no guarantee, either way. But it's best to do the due diligence before buying.

    There's a rich kid at the company I work for- owner's son. He went out and bought a Mack daycab for farm work. Farm work meaning pulling a dovetail around on the weekends, moving equipment.

    Kid has all the money in the world. But, he didn't dyno the truck. He had a mechanic check it and he drove it and bought it cause it had a wet line.

    3 months later it's in the shop and he's putting a reman in it @ $15,000.

    I will feel more comfortable with my truck if the dyno shows it's ok and a mechanic says it's ok.

    If it fails soon after I buy it, it's just bad luck... go be a company driver time.
     
  4. gokiddogo

    gokiddogo Road Train Member

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    The emissions truck may get caught in the middle of regen often with doing somewhat short hauls rather than mostly highway driving. Could cause problems. Emissions fixes are not cheap to fix, unless you decide to fix them permanently. For that reason I would look more closely at the 2005. A difference from 800 and 900 miles isn't much considering they are the same price. I would probably buy the 2005 and run it until it didn't go anymore, if I was in your shoes.
     
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  5. Driver0000

    Driver0000 Medium Load Member

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    The dyno place pretty much told me over the phone to go with the Mack. The guy said to stay away from emissions trucks.

    That said, all I've driven have been trucks that need def and I've only had trouble with one.

    My heart knows the Mack is better but my eyes are saying give the pretty Volvo a shot. Volvos are a hell of a lot more comfortable than old macks. And I'm going to be the driver so... there's that.

    Should I look at a few more trucks? My max is $15,000. Anyone know if I might be able to find a good daycab for less than that?
     
  6. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    The dyno does two things, first it tells you how much horse power is being produced, this is an indicator of wearing out. If you have an engine that produces 70% of its rated power, it is not worth the effort in buying, you want to get it above 80%.

    The other part of the test is the blowby test, it shows the wear in the rings which is important and is always done under a load - a full load. I've read some jokes on other forums that it is only done while idling or while partial load but it has to be a FULL LOAD.

    the tech can tell you if the blowby is too much, again you want it as low as possible and if it is in the upper 50% of the range, don't bother with the truck, it will need an inframe soon.
     
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  7. T-BoneX

    T-BoneX Light Load Member

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    How would go about making sure it was tested under a full load?
     
  8. Driver0000

    Driver0000 Medium Load Member

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    The dyno can simulate a full load being pulled up a mountain.
     
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  9. T-BoneX

    T-BoneX Light Load Member

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    That's ######, thanks man
     
  10. Driver0000

    Driver0000 Medium Load Member

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    I own it now.

    Everything checked out. Dyno, blow off, oil, independent mechanic..,

    I will be under a full load in 4 days.
     
    kimbosa Thanks this.
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