In my previous post , after numerous attempts at fixing my stumbling i thought i had it all fixed, but nope !!
Now, i need some help.
My 2003 Pet 379X 6NZ 18 speed is popping and stumbling still. After more than $23K into trying to fix it, i now have isolated the area of the problem, and its wiring. Truck wash a few weeks back had my horse violently shaking/ popping and huge power drop for 15 miles or so until it dried up somewhat.
Last week the temp here dropped below -13. I needed a quick salt wash off so popped some coins into the do it yourself freeze my butt off truck wash. Obviously the water froze up quickly but after the wash my truck ran like a dream. Im thinking the frozen wash water made connection on a compromised wire, drivers side, between the ECM and the battery box, but theres a crap load of loomed up wires, big and small, in that area. My problem has always been after i reach about 25 - 35 MPH, prior to that speed the truck runs tip top.
I even went as far as pulling the tranny apart seeing as it was always road speed related, but after 16 months and keeping a tight journal on the symptoms, its 100% wiring related. I need to know if anyone experienced such a problem, finding out which wire feeding what data to the ECM. Does anyone have a good breakdown on the ECM wiring, not the engine side, its the ECM port closest to the firewall, with connections from the cab, thetranny speed sensor, the throttle positioning sensor and so on. This is the ECM side im looking for schematics for. If you know of a good web site for this please let me know, every one i see is either a horrible picture, doesnt show more than a few circuits, or its the wrong ECM. My ECM has 2 ports/plugs on it. And its the port nearest the cab/firewall, as previously mentioned.
I could really use some help here.
Thanks guys
CAT C15 /6NZ trouble continues
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by truck 307, Dec 20, 2017.
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Whats the last 6 of your s/n. More then likely the power wires going to the ecm. None of the othet inputs on the oem side can cause misfires. Internal injector harness is another culprit. No codes? Whats the fuel pressure? Air in fuel?
Dhight1 Thanks this. -
- blank
- 5v positive
- input sensor return
- 8v positive
- AP sensor return
- input6 earth signal
- input4 earth signal
- 1587 data pos
- 1587 data neg these two are twisted pair
- output2
- output5
- output3
- output4
- blank
- blank
- blank
- input14 power signal
- input sensor return 1
- output6
- output7
- output8
- clutch N/C to earth
- retarder low/hi switch
- input15 negative
- input15 positive
- input10
- input9 power signal
- check engine lamp
- warning lamp 28 and 29 switch to earth to illuminate either lamp
- output1
- output9
- vehicle speed positive
- vehicle speed negative
- 1939 data negative
- set
- speedo positive
- speedo negative
- tacho positive
- tacho negative
- retarder med/hi switch
- input 11 earth signal
- 1939 data shield
- blank
- resume
- service brake switch N/C to earth when not operated
- input 7 earth signal
- input5 earth signal
- battery positive
- engine coolant level normal earthed
- 1939 data positive pin 34 and 50 1939 data wires will be twisted
- blank
- battery positive
- battery positive
- engine coolant level low earth when low
- blank
- input1 earth signal
- blank
- input2 earth signal
- cruise control on/off
- input3 earth signal
- blank
- input12 power signal
- battery negative
- input13 power signal
- battery negative
- accelerator pedal position
- battery negative
- input 8 power signal
- blank
- ignition key switch. key sends power to here when in on and start position
KB3MMX, Nobody In Particular, easytopleez33 and 1 other person Thank this. -
appologies for lack of file or photo. Im not quite savvy enough to upload them without a lot of time up my sleeve.
that however is direct off sis schematic of the truck/J2 plug closest to the fire wall -
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/yellowman99/2010-05-10_232858_70_OEM.pdf
Here is some info but I'm sure your looking for more. I'll keep searching.Oxbow Thanks this. -
Post last six of your VIN and I can get the Peterbilt wiring diagram. It is 50 pages long. You could just replace your power harness from batteries. I replaced one for a 5EK to 6NZ repower. Do you have access to Cat ET where you could watch battery voltage and key voltage to ECM when problem occurs. You can trigger a snapshot with cruise switches so you can see what voltage ECM has. To trigger snapshot from Cat: The Engine Snapshot can also be triggered from the Cruise Control Set/Resume switch. In order to trigger the Engine Snapshot from the Cruise Control Set/Resume switch, quickly toggle the switch to the Set position. Then, quickly toggle the switch to the Resume position. You can also toggle the Cruise Control Set/Resume switch from the Resume position to the Set position. The Engine Snapshot can also be triggered from Cat ET.
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The last 6 digits of my VIN # 581689 (2003 Pete, 379 X )
Engine S/N ...6NZ 77772 (yes, the #7 appears 4 times consecutively, which ive been asked numerous times )
Thanks ever so much.
Im an old farm guy myself, worked on anything & everything in the most challenging of areas up to our knees in clay mud that pulls your knee joints out of socket when trying to step ahead. But this engine chug / pop / power drop is a challenge. Soaking down the various clusters of cables/ wires etc on the drivers side causes the engine to react with huge problems or a instant temporary fix wnd smooth problem free running (when i hand spray off road salt etc in -15 degree temps, hood closed when at the do it yourself wash bay outside )Oxbow Thanks this. -
Here is complete wiring diagram for your year 379. If file doesn't open PM me.
Attached Files:
SAR Thanks this. -
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The main engine power goes to a 2 pin plug located near the ecm then goes behind the starter towards the battery box to a mega fuse in there. It is common for the harness to rub out behind the starter and behind the battery box
Attached Files:
easytopleez33, SAR, Oldironfan and 2 others Thank this. -
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The shop I use installed a neww power wire from the batteries to the ECM, with no change in my problem. This was done a month ago.
When I shimmed up the cables inside the battery box just before they leave the battery box area, the rolled up rag not only lifter the cables and exiting wires "inside" the battery box, but because these cables are all loomed / zip-tied / taped together after they exit the back of the battery box and this "wrapping" together of these wires that (once they are out the back of the battery box) drop down in a big tied up cluster and subsequently another cluster joins into them down behind / below the battery box. So , by moving around the cluster of cables "inside" the battery box, it also moved the cables and wires "outside and below" the rear of the battery box. So, now I have; A) Moved the cables behind the battery box, which made my problem change, and B) sprayed wash water in the same (and other areas relatively close to) place as these cables. But, being such a huge cluster, and with the truck at least able to work now (it wasn't some many months ago because it was so bad) I would like to narrow down the area, identifying more of the wires that run in this area behind the battery box. If I move the cluster and inadvertently completely break (if that's the case) the bad wire and /or circuit, I could completely disable my trucks ability to go to work come Jan 02nd (when I'm due back on the job).
Any ideas ?
Greatly appreciate your support.
Thanks again, and a Merry Christmas to you and your family
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