How d I get a truck?

Not true...

I had my local International Dealer do the in frame on my mandate free ISX, the CM-871. I explained what I did, showed him how everything was intact on the motor. No plates, no holes drilled in the block, yes some delete outfits do that, and the pyrometer gauge I installed to monitor the exhaust gas temps. I told them to go through everything, just do not touch the ECM in regards to reprogramming. I spent $40,000 there, Radiator back to the tail end of the transmission. Everything was gone through, all new parts installed, $33,000 in parts. I walked out with a warranty. that was over two years ago. First turbo they gave me failed, the only reman part on there, and replaced under warranty. No issues with the motor since. Now, it is just Gas Tires and Oil... I now have a normal old school truck that has been very dependable. Knock on wood.

Oh, a crate motor from Cummins, $38,000 + Install. They jacked the prices by $10,000 when I lost the head on mine. As that was the route I was going to go. Got much more bang for my buck going the in frame route.

On a side note, when the motor was disassembled, it looked really good. The cams I replaced, I really did not need to. Everything looked very good other than the lower end bearings, they were showing a bit of wear, normal wear, but I knew that and was on my list prior to the in frame. Piston tops, very nice spray patterns showing from injectors, etc. Only real known issues with the CM-871 are the throw away heads. Don't waste your money on a reman, they tend to fail in short order. Only new OEM, spend the money and do it right.

 

Not really... You can do what you want to do as a driver, that is how I made my decision to purchase my first truck. I ran the numbers going down the road, pretending the truck I was driving was mine. I knew the owner, and we became good friends. He gave me access to the numbers on the truck, what he did, etc. So, I had real financial numbers to run MY numbers. I knew what it cost to run the truck to the penny, fuel, services, IFTA, plates, 2290, cargo if I went that way vs leasing a truck to a company and simply paying for bobtail insurance and liability.

This lease route, man, to many horror stories out there, and I know what it costs to run a truck at a profit and actually be able to bank some coin. And it is not at these rates these lease outfits offer when you subtract all of their fees and charges for the truck. In all honesty, you will make more money driving for a smaller company or owner op with good freight. Save some money, accumulate a few tools, research these emission systems if you have to have an EPA truck.

Myself, I would find an older truck, 2003 or older, I would avoid Cat, they no longer make motors thanks to the EPA, parts are getting sketchy. I would look for a Cummins or Detroit in something like an FLD or KW. Find one with a fresh in frame and a good set of rubber. My buddy found one like that, paid $14,000 last year. 1999 FLD Condo... His repairs have been a new AC compressor and belt, two slack adjusters and one set of brake shoes, and a set of batteries. Other than that, it has been a very solid truck that he is making money with. And he financed it.

But, if you insist, read this, it is free and I know the author, who saved my bacon on the emission side of things on my DPF Cummins. I would be bankrupt and homeless if not for Rawze, and I am being VERY serious.
http://rawze.com/book/The First Time Class-8 Lease-Purchase Owner-Op Guide.pdf

 

Someone doesn't get that a lease is a long term commitment and there is a reason why it is better to buy.

It isn't like leasing a car, it is a commercial lease and to me if this is how some people think they can get into being an owner, then maybe it is one of the reasons why there is such a high failure rate among owners and should be stopped.

 

$9k will get you nothing reliable. Even most trucks I see listed for $30-40k aren't a simple turn the key and go to work.

 

If you are patient there are some deals out there to be had. And you are correct, nothing will be issue free. But at least with an older non EPA truck you have a higher rate of survival than you would with a used EPA model. You can in frame an old truck for the costs of an emission failure on a newer truck. Been there and done that.

 

The one thing i think has happened at least on the private truck market is the inflation of older trucks to cash in on the ELD fears. I've seen some pretty pathetic junk being sold for top dollar and I know that just because they are asking that outrageous price for junk doesn't mean they will get it.

 

That you are correct on. If I was in the market for an older truck, Detroit or Cummins, 2001 to 2004/5, non EGR. I have been seeing those trucks on the market for a fair price, and some in very good shape for under $30, a few at $20 in need of paint and cosmetics. Find a truck with good bones, fresh in frame and decent rubber. The rest is easily and in most cases inexpensive to fix while making money rolling down the road. The ELD situation is what it is, and not enough of a reason to overpay for someone else's junk.

 

I wouldn't arrange for payments. As chicken as that sounds. The statute of limitations on collections accounts is 7 years from last payment made. One can't trust collections accounts and they run the risk of resetting that 7 years. That regulation is written in either the FAIR DEBT COLLECTIONS PRACTICES ACT or the FAIR CREDIT REPORTING ACT.

@RoadRunner84 , Having open lines of credit with a zero balance will raise your score. The higher your score. The better the interest. If you can't get a open line of credit from a credit card somehow. The best way for an open line of credit is to open a secured savings credit card. Just about everyone is approved that don't have open bankruptices, foreclosures or leins. The higher your savings account. The higher your credit line. Having a zero balance will boost your score. Maxing out the card will drop your points. I would take 5G for one account at least. Pay off your balance every month is the usual way for a unsecured card and getting higher credit limits. It doesn't really matter with a secured card. Your credit limit is your savings. It'll never go up unless you deposit more money. If the bank allows. Most banks will usually convert your secured card to unsecured card after you've proven worthy and have no added new collections. And give you your deposit back.

If i'm thinking about applying for a loan. I know when the dates are for my cards that they report to the agencies. And pay off my balances on or before those dates. So i have a zero balance and highest score possible to better interest rates.

 

I will take a look at this link once I have some free time. Just getting back out on the road and will be running hard to make up for the lost time over the holidays. Just for the record my company does not offer a lease purchase it is just a strait lease with a much lower payment then most of the lease purchases I have heard the numbers for. All and all it is just another way to get into the O/O game for people. Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. It's all about the numbers and finding somewhere it will work simple as that.

 

Reading all of this makes me embarrassed as hell bout how I got mine