Buying a Freightliner 07, 515 hp 3.58 ratio..Need some tips so I don't get a lemon

betochas · Sep 27, 2013

How did the truck purchase go Freightguy?

bull hauler · Sep 28, 2013

See if u can get number of orig owner to call and ask questions while he had it ..and ask him what shop he used to work on it see if u can talk to his mechanic as to work done ect if its a small shop...big shop aint gonna help much. Does stealership have paperwork on work done from prev owner?

Only 500k on it should have some life in er before anything big for awhile anyways, guess my post would b more for an older more mile truck but if u can talk to orig owner and flat out ask him why he got rid of it and things he didnt like gonna help quite a bit, unless it was a company truck

I know u can get a good or bad truck anywhere i like buying from owner ops personally

hahaha crap old post nevermind!

bull hauler · Sep 28, 2013

Hey horsewhisper can u pm that doc on egr delete? Buddy needs help with that bad!

kokyb · Jan 22, 2018

Horse Whisperer said: ↑

First of all, you make assumptions that are invalid... the first being that I don't know what my mod does to the system... I know EXACTLY what it does... it removes the barometric altitude sensor from the system and produces a signal that locks the VNT in boost mode -- a NORMAL and acceptable mode of operation for the engine... one that occurs when the altitude is detrimental to engine operation because of the interference by the EGR system... remember, the EGR system is an engineering ADD-ON to the motor, not an original design feature. Bypassing the EGR valve does NOT lean out the fuel, it removes a backblow of exhaust gasses into the oil system., it also removes any possibility of the EGR cooler causing coolant leaks into the oil (kind of expensive to fix);

Next, even ASSUMING that the modification causes me to blow a motor every 3 years or so, the math is still in my favor... $30k in fuel savings per 100k miles averages about $100k in fuel savings... a new DDEC IV motor, INSTALLED runs me about $25k... still at LEAST $75k in my favor... however, I have YET to get a SINGLE report from ANYONE who has done this modification about ANY system or motor damage... All I hear is glowing performance and fuel economy results...

Again, I request SPECIFICS, not OPINION... opinions have a maximum effective range of ZERO meters.
Click to expand...

i would love to try this on my 2005 columbia 14.0l

dustinbrock · Jan 22, 2018

kokyb said: ↑

i would love to try this on my 2005 columbia 14.0l
Click to expand...

Don't do it! My god has the understanding of tuning this engine come a long long way from 2013 when this outdated pile of junk idea was popular! The ugly fix which is what he's referring too as absolute garbage at its finest! For a very very modest price, I know if guys that'll make that think purr like a kitten without putting your engine in the kind of danger that the ugly fix does!

kokyb · Jan 22, 2018

Horse Whisperer said: ↑

For those who are interested:

EGR Delete for Series 60

GREY Wire Ext Cable ¼ Watt 10k Ohm Resistor
ENGINE SIDE ============== ====== vvvvvv --------] BARO Sensor Side
PINK Wire |
============== =========== <]
BLACK Wire ]
============== ======vvvvvv -------]
¼ Watt 10k Ohm Resistor

Radio Shack Parts List:

2 AA Enclosed Battery Holder (Part #: 270 0408)

10k Ohm, ¼ watt resistors (Part #: 271-1126)

Extension Power Cable (Part #: 278-767)

Butt Connectors (heat shrink type work best)

Silicone sealant

OPTIONAL!!! 4 Position Female Interlocking Connector (Part #: 274 0234)

Instructions:

Remove insides of Battery Holder; then drill 2 extra holes in order to fit a total of 3 wires through the case (one hole is already to one side on one end, so just drill 2 holes beside that one for even spacing);

Cut the Extension Power cable in half, so you have equal amounts of wire with a connector on each end remember to select ONE black wire that matches each end and cut off, as you only need 3 of the four connections provided; Run the wires through the holes in the battery box, BLACK wire to the center position;

Connect one end of BOTH resistors to the BLACK wire in the battery box (use butt connector to secure the resistors to each other then the black wire);

Connect the other end of each resistor to ONE of the remaining wires; Both the RED and the ORANGE wires get a resistor butt connected inside the box see diagram above;

Use an OHM meter to test the resistance/connections set for 10k resistance, then probe the BLACK wire to each of the other 2 wires and make sure you read 10k resistance;

Once you are satisfied that all connections are secure, gently arrange the resistors and wires inside the battery box, and fill with silicone sealant, replace cover, screw down tight;

Next, Remove the Barometric Sensor from the motor, leaving at least 2 inches of wire for the optional connector (#6 in parts list above);

Strip the wires on both the remaining section of the Extension Power Cable and on the Engine side of the system leaving about ½ bare for each place butt connectors on all 3 wires for the Extension Power Cable, then match up to the engine side. VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure the PINK engine wire is connected to the BLACK Power cable wire. The other 2 wires can be matched up with either red or orange, there is no difference in the operation.

If using the optional part for the Baro Sensor in case the operator wants to revert back to the standard system, match the plug ends to the wires on the sensor;

Plug the Power Cable ends together, start the motor if NO Codes or CHK ENG/ENG PROT lights, then turn off motor, seal with electrical tape, and zip tie in place

ENJOY Your NEW motor!

View attachment 51763
Click to expand...

can i see the attachment?

Horse Whisperer said: ↑

First of all, you make assumptions that are invalid... the first being that I don't know what my mod does to the system... I know EXACTLY what it does... it removes the barometric altitude sensor from the system and produces a signal that locks the VNT in boost mode -- a NORMAL and acceptable mode of operation for the engine... one that occurs when the altitude is detrimental to engine operation because of the interference by the EGR system... remember, the EGR system is an engineering ADD-ON to the motor, not an original design feature. Bypassing the EGR valve does NOT lean out the fuel, it removes a backblow of exhaust gasses into the oil system., it also removes any possibility of the EGR cooler causing coolant leaks into the oil (kind of expensive to fix);

Next, even ASSUMING that the modification causes me to blow a motor every 3 years or so, the math is still in my favor... $30k in fuel savings per 100k miles averages about $100k in fuel savings... a new DDEC IV motor, INSTALLED runs me about $25k... still at LEAST $75k in my favor... however, I have YET to get a SINGLE report from ANYONE who has done this modification about ANY system or motor damage... All I hear is glowing performance and fuel economy results...

Again, I request SPECIFICS, not OPINION... opinions have a maximum effective range of ZERO meters.
Click to expand...

Log in or Sign up

Forums

Find Trucking Jobs

Buying a Freightliner 07, 515 hp 3.58 ratio..Need some tips so I don't get a lemon

betochas Light Load Member

Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

Wait, employers can't reach you!

bull hauler Medium Load Member

bull hauler Medium Load Member

kokyb Bobtail Member

dustinbrock Road Train Member

kokyb Bobtail Member

Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

Wait, employers can't reach you!

Log in or Sign up

Useful Searches

Find Trucking Jobs

Buying a Freightliner 07, 515 hp 3.58 ratio..Need some tips so I don't get a lemon

betochas Light Load Member

Wait, employers can't reach you!

bull hauler Medium Load Member

bull hauler Medium Load Member

kokyb Bobtail Member

dustinbrock Road Train Member

kokyb Bobtail Member

Wait, employers can't reach you!