Sticky door latch...

Sorry I should of said Passenger door also i like blaster a lot.

 

No! Open the door,just below the glass 4-5" are the jaws. Right next to the jaws upper and lower are springs, you can see them coiled up there. They aren't real heavy gauge,just a light spring. Just spray penetrating oil right on the spring. Under that spring is a rod that the jaw pivots on it's probably covered with rust. Look at the stricker post on the door frame. If it's all beat up you may have to replace it. Then look at the jaws when they are closed(push them together by hand) They should form a circle,they don't have to be perfect,but if they are really egged out they're shot.

 

It sucks trying to shut the door and then having the door just swing back open

 

sucks more when you are driving along and the door opens up while you are leaning elbow on it

 

Hate to bring up an oldie, but after battling trying to get the original latch to work right for the last month I bit the bullet and bought a new one. Are these a pretty easy swap out??

 

Let's just admit that the Peterbilt door latches are crap.
Picked up a new lease for a couple weeks and the drivers door won't close fully.
The latch won't hang on tight enough.
My Boss said that was the case for the showroom trucks they were looking at too.
The Company went with KW. The door on my KW is so tight I have to roll the windows down a touch to close them.

 

I use aero kroil spray lube every once in a while. I just squirt it into the jaws where the springs are. And I agree with Flyer, get new ones and always use original Peterbilt keys. It may sound funny, but I've tried having keys cut to save money and they do work most of the time, but a Pete key just works the best

 

Also, don't forget the striker pin. That's just as important as the latch. If you see a groove where the latch catches, it's done. If you change the latch, change the striker