Hey y’all, I searched but didn’t find an answer to this specifically. So long story short:
Got put into a new truck (‘14 389). I have my own set up with a brand new coax, fairly new mirror mount into a Connex 3300hp.
I’m waiting until I get by the house to pick up my Predator 10k so I needed a temporary antenna until then. I bought a week old K 40 Center Load Antenna for $20 off a friend( it was temporary for him as well, he had no issues with it. At least that’s what he told me).
Here’s the issue: This is a new problem for me, with the whip almost all the way down, the SWR reading is about 3.5 on Channels 1 & 40. With the cheap stock fiberglass antenna it gives me around 1.9:1 on either channel.
My question is simply, would trimming the antenna fix the high SWR problem or could the antenna just be a dud? Has anyone had issues with this K 40 model? I’m just trying to see how much time and effort I should put into this.
Thanks in advance everyone.
K-40 Center Loaded Antenna SWR Problem
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by Viper 3-2, Mar 2, 2018.
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Well first of all, you got a great buy if it’s the k40 antenna I’m thinking of. You have to remember that the same antenna can have a different swr reading on a different vehicle. As far as trimming the antenna will fix the swr problem?, I can’t answer that without more info. You say you checked the swr with the antennas whip almost completely down. What happens when you lower it completely down? Here’s how I’ve always adjusted my antennas, some may not agree with it. I always lower the steel whip completely down and then check my swr on channel 20 (center of the band). I take a reading and make note of it. Then I raise the whip up about 1/4th of an inch, and note the second reading. If the 2nd swr reading is higher then the first, I know the whip is to long. Then I remove 1/4th of an inch from the steel whip, and lower it completely down. Then take reading again and it’s usually lower then the very first reading. I keep repeating this procedure until I get the swr where It should be. Now when you first start this procedure and there’s no change on your swr readings, don’t start cutting the steel whip until you resolve the problem with the antenna system first. Hope this makes sense.
Viper 3-2 Thanks this. -
That sounds like great advice, I sure appreciate the come back. It’s the K 40 tear drop style, clear in the center so you can see the coil. I’m going to give your method a try as soon as I get a free moment and I’ll report back.
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Ended up with the following:
Channel 1 1.2:1
Channel 20 1.2:1
Channel 40 1.3:1
Many, many thanks Night StalkerI am able to rest easy now.
rabbiporkchop Thanks this. -
Wonderful, glad to help. Now you can enjoy your new antenna. For me this has always been the easiest way to figure out if the antenna is too long or too short.rabbiporkchop and Viper 3-2 Thank this. -
It is very difficult to get a true ground plane with a mirror mount antenna, even though most trucks use them! Because of that, any new or different truck, or general positioning will require re-tuning. Load coils always cut effective transmission power, even though they can cure SWR issues. Using a full 1/4 wave (at center frequency) antenna without a load coil is always best but not usually practical. But hey, as long as your under 13-6, why not?
Now I'm a licensed HAM, highest license allowed and can transmit to satellite stations. We all are allowed to design and create our own antenna systems, and enjoy it when we have the time.
You might get yourself a HAM radio HF band antenna tuner for your CB system. You can then adjust and optimize for best SWR and transmission power on any channel while you actually use the radio. Most are automatic now days.Viper 3-2 Thanks this. -
And what would a 1/4 wave antenna without a load coil look like? Similar to a 102” whip antenna? I’m somewhat familiar with some of the terminology but a lot are still beyond my current understanding. I do enjoy learning about radio though. -
Also, the shield of the COAX can be a big problem in any radio system. Today most COAX uses an aluminum wire and or foil shield. This stuff is TRASH! A big corner cut to avoid the cost of copper. The aluminum guarantees connection problems WILL occur sooner or later. Usually sooner. We used to always use copper jacketed cable and soldered all shield connections, which does take some skill. If you look hard enough, you can still find the good stuff. Road salt will trash today's COAX connections very easily. Good job security for all of the system installers though.Viper 3-2 Thanks this. -
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If you go 102 whip, be sure to use the big fat spring too, it needs to be 108" to work right.
Viper 3-2 Thanks this.
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