Starter Solenoid AND Mag Switch?

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by RocketScott, May 1, 2018.

  1. RocketScott

    RocketScott Medium Load Member

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    I'm redoing the engine wiring harness on my '89 379 with a cummins 444xt

    The starter is a Denso, I can read that much of the tag. Too much stuff in the way to read a part number. The sticker is on the side next to the frame rail. It looks like this:
    Welcome to Sears.com

    Do I need a separate solenoid/mag switch with that starter? I'm looking over wiring diagrams and can't figure out why there is an external solenoid. It doesn't look like it's switching a higher current circuit. All the wires going to the solenoid are the same size.
     
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  3. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    The biggest benefit for the secondary solenoid (mag switch) is to reduce the voltage and amp drop to the main starter solenoid by lessening the amount of heavier copper and connections to activate it. This also reduces the ampload on the cab wiring. If your running new wire, I suggest using a 8-6 ga wire between the starter and solenoid (mag switch), your control wire can match the rest of the wiring on the truck. (i’ve seen 12 or 14ga for the late 80’s era). For the most bang for your buck, solder as many connections as you can.

    Hope this helps...
     
  4. RocketScott

    RocketScott Medium Load Member

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    I get why it might be needed. I just can’t tell if it really needs to be in there. The wiring has been hacked up and 12ga wires with butt connectors have been starting the truck fine for the five years I’ve owned it. The solenoid is mounted on the firewall above the passthough connectors. I’m thinking that an extra foot or two of wire wouldn’t make that much of a difference.

    I have the wiring diagram from super miller. It shows the mag switch as being an option but none of the schematics I have explain which satarters need it.

    I also have the build sheet for my truck and it lists the mag switch being installed when the truck was built.

    The starter looks like it’s been replaced though and I can’t find a spec sheet or installation instructors for the starter that’s in there.
     
  5. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    Post the last 6 of your vin and ill grab some info
     
  6. RocketScott

    RocketScott Medium Load Member

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    235083

    When the dealer brings it up there is some confusion about which truck it is. I guess There’s another truck out there with the same last six. Mine is the ‘89.
     
  7. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    There shouldn't be any confusion. Pete started reusing old VIN's, so sometimes you get an option of 2 trucks, but they are decades apart. The most confusion there should be is the parts person asking something like, "Is is an 1989 or a 2012?"

    Personally, I'd leave the switch on it. It's an assumption, but I'm going to say that your truck originally came with a 42MT starter without the switch and that switch was added with the new starter. The reason for the extra magnetic switch is to protect your ignition switch/wiring. The new high torque gear reduction starters have a higher amp solenoid, which can overload the OEM wiring. It doesn't hurt anything to have it on there if your don't need it, but it can hurt something if you need it and take it off, so I'd play it safe.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2018
  8. RocketScott

    RocketScott Medium Load Member

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    You would think it would be as easy as picking between two trucks, but you also have your wits together. Whenever I go to the dealer to track down parts he shows me schematics of the other truck. I have to tell him "No, it's the other truck" more than once in the same conversation.

    I think it's the other way around with the mag switch. The build sheet shows one being installed. At some point the starter got swapped out and they left it in. The starter that's in there now isn't a gear reduction starter.
     
  9. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    Either way, it won't hurt to keep it. Unless you can find out for sure that you don't need it (which isn't going to be easy), I'd play it safe.

    If you want to know for sure, you can ohm out the coil on the solenoid and calculate the amp draw. If the amp draw on the starter solenoid coil is a lot higher than the coil on the mag switch, leave it be. If they're pretty close, it's not needed.
     
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  10. RocketScott

    RocketScott Medium Load Member

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    I checked the resistance on the coil of the mag switch and on the starter solenoid.

    The mag switch/solenoid is 17.3 and the starter solenoid is 7.7

    So the mag switch is drawing about .8 amps and the starter solenoid draws 1.8 amps at 14 volts.

    A 1.8 amp draw doesn't sound like a whole lot to me, unless I'm not understanding something.
     
  11. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    I would agree. I just checked a 39 MT starter (that does require a 2nd switch) and the solenoid coil has 0.7 ohms, so almost 20 amps on that one. As long as your ohm readings are correct, I'd say that you don't need the 2nd switch.
     
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