Clutch pedal stays about 2" down from the top

Once broke front spring at U bolt 3am south side Chicago. Zip ties and duct tape .Ran 120 miles slow and steady. Once ran 500 miles home w clutch engaged wouldn’t release had to start in creeper and go!! Hardest part was delivering load bumping dock on hill w/a 10 ft drop off in front of It. Dealer wanted $3400 to do clutch job double what it ended up costing me.Hook is a four letter word !! Only once in 22 yrs Blown engine. Thanks

 

Yup.........set your gaps and measure your gaps.

Then mess with linkage issues if you dont have good brake squeeze.

I still have new guys come through the shop that say they can adjust a clutch and still manage to screw it all up. For some reason they get hooked on the freeplay adjustment and over complicate the heck out of things.

 

Just wondering when there’s no adjustment left . What normally happens when turning adj screw. Does it just turn uselessly or tighten up and no longer turn? Bottom out and stop turning?

 

The adjuster will stop. Doesnt offen make it that far before the clutch fails or begins to slip though. If there is a long distance between adjust times the ring can become frozen and it may seem like its bottomed out but really just stuck.

 

If I turn mine enough it gets more resistance and snaps like it strips out and I’m back where I started from. Took adjuster out looked good. Can’t obtain 1/2” get 7/8 at best.When I get it there and turn it some more it starts losing free play and is close to the “snap point”. I set it at best and loosened it a bit so I would have a little adj left about 1 full turn . Clutch brake has 7/16 gap. Won’t engage. It’s all shot. I have had to adj this clutch about 50 k almost twice as often as previous 2 I’ve had done 1 of in this truck. The others still had a lot of meat on pads just springs fell out and discs rusted.My question is It’s clamping good now and got almost 2” freeplay

 

freeplay due to linkage adjustment. So if I can adjust linkage enough to get Clutch brake to engage and maybe have only a little free play would that be better. My goal here is to keep it from slipping until it’s iut of freeplay. Will do clutch ASAP .I doubt it’s worth an oversized clutch brake. That would make it all operate better as is but I think it’s gonna start slipping even with some freeplay left as is.

 

Kinda sounds like you answered your own question. If you cant achieve the proper gaps pull and check the adjuster. Other than that its gotta come out.

 

Thanks I meant to delete and posted. Trying to make it last another few weeks.Ive been told 30 hr labor for clutch rear main and rear cover resealed. Sounds like a lot. Considering doing myself. $300 trans jack at Harbor Freight looks flimsy any thoughts appreciated