Detroit Diesel DPF Issues

Some of the DPF systems for the bigger rigs can go as high as 15k dollars...Hope you get it ironed out...Ever thought of deleting it,then reflash ECM to delete the regen cycle??Just a thought....May help you out with cooler EGT's also....Not to mention the power you'll pick up,and be able to actually idle the darn thing....Keep the DPF in place,but hollow the catalyst out if that is an option??

 

Ive had issues with this system. although the truck has 200,000 miles the bugs have not been worked out. The engine derates and i lose power at the worst times, passing or pulling into a curve. It really is startling in bad conditions. It will also turn off the cruise idle control and I wake up in a frozen truck. When I do run the southern states and warmer climates the problem does not subside.

 

Did you fix your problem, Im having problems with my dpf.

 

I was considering a retrofit to a Johnson Mathey ACCRT for a series 60 2006 engine. I have a ceramic coated exhaust manifold and I am thinking I will put a heat blanket around the turbo and wrap the exhaust all the way to the inlet on the DPF. I am getting about 700 degrees from the back of the turbo now, but think I can get it up to 750 degrees or better. This should burn the soot out of the DPF easy enough. I've been waiting for people to comment on their experience with retrofits, but so far there's not too may people talking about it.

 

masocata did you get your truck fixed?

 

I've talked to 2 major west coast trucking companies that have installed Johnson Mathey ACCRT and CRT on over 400 trucks. They are saying that you have to stay on top of the turbo and fuel injectors as well as having the DPF cleaned at least once a year. These fleets have been using these for over 3 years now with relatively few failures. Mostly the failures are the result of the operator and idling too much. I'd say that the ACCRT seems to be the best way to go.

 

Look through all of your wiring harnesses thoroughly, a large percentage of the problems are from a heat cracked wire that has had the inside exposed to water and road salts (causing corrosion), this corroded "green wire" has additional resistance, and this additional resistance changes the electrical value being reported from it's corresponding sensor, or you could have a wire that has chafed and has become exposed, or maybe touching metal and grounding out, again changing the value being reported to the ECM. The ECM "sees" this value and makes adjustments to the EGR valve, and if the info isn't right the system runs badly. You can have a "failed within limits" situation. Making things worse, sometimes a poorly trained, or possibly inexperienced, mechanic will find a fault code and replace the sensor, or sensors, associated with the fault code instead of carefully examining the wires and connectors... the wire is overlooked, the good sensor gets replaced with another good sensor, and the problem remains unsolved. The other problems I've had with this system is the Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor, (gets sooted up and acts erratically), and EGR valves failing within limits, which causes performance issues....

I've got 615k on one of these engines, and haven't had any problems since I carefully replaced the wiring harnesses and used extra zip ties to secure wires from vibration, aside from the EGR valves. Plan on replacing an EGR valve every 150-200k miles or so..

DO NOT idle the engine, it will cause you nothing but trouble if you idle it a lot. (get an APU) This engine and EGR system was not designed for idling. Idling will cause the DOC/DPF to soot up. (DPF filters are about $450 a pop, a DOC will cost a couple grand)

Hope this helps.