Tricks of the trade.....

Wow! OK, I thought this was a place to get help. I asked "Does anyone know of a site online where I can find one of these tools?" I wasn't asking you to do the work for me. This Forum is called Experienced Truckers Advice. I figured their may be an experienced driver who had the answer to my question. I had already tried looking myself, but was unable to find the tool.

I looked on their sites and did not find online stores.

 

First off, they don't like for us to post "commercial for profit" links within the forum.

Second, I answered your question. I've even confirmed the site(s) exist. For myself.

But you still haven't looked. I hit the Flying J online store within 2 clicks. After entering the information in a search engine. The same with the TA site.

BTW...here's the patent number for you as well. For the tool.
United States Patent 7325822

Refer future comments to my tag below.

 

to check your speedometer use a stopwatch to time moving between mile markers. It's best to use flat and straight road at leats one mile long. Use the formula 3600/seconds equals speed in miles per hour.

I use the A post, the post bwteeen the edge of the widshield and front of the passenger door as a steady reference. When the A-post passes a mile marker begin timing. When the a-post passes the next MM stop timing.

I do this when I first get into a different truck and then in my regular truck every so often to confirm my speedo is correct.

As a rule of thumb, for speeds between 55 - 65 mph expect to see the time of 65 - 55 seconds. For these speeds taking one more second to travel a mile means one mph slower.

If you drive the same truck all the time, just set the cruise at your fleet maximum and do the math before you start driving. "My truck max speed is 66 mph so I should see 54-55 seconds per mile." That way I don't have to play with the calculator while I drive. The key is being consistent with starting and stopping the timing. If you aren't consistent and precise with the stopwatch you will get a faulty result.

This only works for those few drivers with watches, the rest of you guys asking "what time is it" on the CB are on your own.

 

My wife and I have a 4 cup Mr Coffee in the truck. We probably save hundreds of dollars a year drinking our own coffee. And we don't have to get dressed to have a cup. We also drink bottled water carried with us at all times to prevent body reactions to impure water. I bought wide red rubber bands at a truck show to wrap up my E-track straps. Keeps them neat and ready to use. Pop is about 35 cents a can when bought in a 12 pack at WalMart. Why would any reasonable person pay $1.25 per can at a vending machine?

 

I didn't read the entire thread so this may have been mentioned...

This comes from experience with spread axle stepdeck trailers, but the moral of the story applies to any trailer...I see a lot of drivers doing this (experienced drivers too) and it irks me.

When you get a load that has 1 or 2 heavy parts such as crane parts (example... a boom section and 1 or 2 counter weights) don't put the weight on the rear of the trailer just because you are allowed 20,000 lbs. per axle. I have found that its better (not always easier) to put the weights up front (first one about 2 feet back from the step, but that will vary with different trailers) and use a bridge to hold up the rear of the boom section.

Why???

Because if you encounter slick roads (I 80 across Wyoming in winter for example) you will have the weight (traction) on your drive tires where it HELPS you...instead of on the trailer where it PUSHES you.

I watched a guy jacknife because of this...and I did try to suggest that he put some weight on the drives when we loaded at Norfolk but he said those famous last words..."I know what I'm doing and this is the easiest way to do it".

My load was pretty much the same as his (2 counter weights and boom section), the trucks, trailers, and tires were identical...I had good traction, he hit the brakes to pull in a rest area and the trailer pushed his truck around before he knew what happened.

Its pretty near impossible to stop a jacknife once it starts...but you might be able to get it back under control if the trailer loses traction.

If the truck loses traction...its all over.

The moral of the story...distribute the weight with traction in mind, as well as legal axle weights...the easy way is not always the best way.

 

Here another Windex or something like it and paper towels to wash the inside of the windows. Also a roll of TP. The TP is for emergencies only, like rolling across some backroad and your 20 miles past a T/S or rest area and next stop is 50+ miles. That has happen to me couple of times.

 

So many good ideas, here's another: we have always put a paper towel dispenser overhead where the driver can reach for a paper towel while driving. We buy the rolls that let you take off a small piece if that's all you want. Works great for the nose, a sneeze, a spill, whatever, the paper towel is right there when you need it.

 

I just wanted to say thanks to all of you. As someone just trying to start out, all this information is GREAT. Keep up the good info., i know you may not beleave this but, you are helping to make a difference in someones life.

 

Some driving tips:

In low traction conditions, like hitting a patch of black ice, drive with your fingers and not your arms. The arm muscles are made for big movements while the fingers will give you more precision and control. When you have to make corrections in steering, steering with your arms will make you over-correct, while steering with your fingers will be exact.
How do you know when you are steering with your fingers? Your arms will not move when you work the steering wheel.

Blowing a steer tire at highway speeds:

Kick the tranny into neutral, strong grip on the steering wheel and let her coast to a stop while you work your way to the right shoulder. Hazards on. As you start to slow, pull the hand brake down slightly to where you can feel the trailer brakes pulling you. As you drop to 10 mph or less, increase the pressure to the hand brake to where the hand brake is in the middle of its range. The truck will come to a stop without chewing up the wheel of the blown steer tire.

 

Wow, nobody said to get out and check your fifth wheel height in relation to the king pin on the trailer so you don't back completely into the front of the trailer or punch the fifth wheel into the bulkhead. I've seen guys do this at drop yards all the time. Also don't just trust the pull test when you do hook up. Get out and look under the trailer and shine your flashlight up there towards the jaws to make sure they are in the locked position. I've watched guys drag a trailer for 3 or 4 feet and think everything was fine then go down the road and have the trailers fall off the fifth wheel. You can imagine the carnage this can create. Pack a warm coat and shoes in case you ever have to hoof it somewhere down the road in inclimate weather. Keeping a gallon jug of water under the bunk for emergency use is good too. If you ever are parked somewhere with no water you can brush your teeth and wash off the cobwebs. If you swing doors for a living (reefer/van) be ready for the load to fall on your head after a long trip. And finally, don't be embarrased to Get Out And Look when you are backing in anywhere if you are not sure of your clearances. It is far less inconvenient than having to explain a twisted bumper or a torn off trailer door.
P.S. If you are stopped by the Police/DOT I have found that a friendly attitude will go a long way. If you come off as a jerk be prepared to get treated like one.