Increased Milage/APU Idea

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by 7mouths2feed, Jun 14, 2009.

  1. 25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    The batteries are set up to put out 12 volts to everything, they are often a double parallel with 4 12 volt batteries; 2 sets of 2 batteries running two leads to the starter and splitting off the rest into various things, that is why a truck can start and the batteries be charged but other things are not working right.
     
    7mouths2feed Thanks this.
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  3. L.B.

    L.B. Third Generation Truck Driver

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    Here's an idea:

    Is it possible to splice a second ac compressor into the lines on the truck already? I found complete 3 cyl deisel egines fo around $3500, all you would need to do is attach an alternator and tie it into the existing electrical on the truck, add an ac compressor and splice it into the existing high and low side lines, and tie the collant lines into the coolant lines in the truck. Then you have heat, ac and electrical and only have to hang a 250lb deisel engine set in a box on the frame.
     
  4. 7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    I would have to ask an AC guy about the effects of installing a "SECOND" compressor inline. Brickman might be able to answer that for us since the "PonyPack" uses a separate alternator/compressor/condensor but uses the existing truck blower and evaporator components. Thats were parts of my design came from but I don't know if the "PP" leaves the existing compressor inplace.

    HEY BRICKMAN! YOU OUT THERE? We need to pick your brain!:biggrin_25526:

    As for the deisel genset, the "koolrig" is only slightly more than the motor alone and would eliminate all of the hassles of your own build, plus it uses NO fuel. It also offers better heating and cooling than the "Sun Power" unit mentioned.

    Pawned please give more info on the heat-pumps you mentioned.


    BTW LB Thank You for your services in Iraq. Let us know if there is anything we can do to help on the home front.
     
  5. Pawnd

    Pawnd Medium Load Member

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    Soleus Air 12,000 BTU PA1-12R-32 Self Evaporative Portable Air Conditioner 5-in-1 (brilliantstore)

    Sanyo model 18KHS72 SINGLE ZONE 20 SEER 18000 BTU HEAT PUMP SYSTEM (ductlessdepot)

    Aurora
    6500-Watt Silent Diesel generator (emergencypower)

    Easier more reliable than reinventing the wheel. Likely less cost because systems rarely work the first time. Unless you are look to start a new business. The battery systems weigh the same as a genpac (roughly). Check out the night system and comfortcab. 8 agm batteries give about 12 hours, and 6 give about 8 hours. Most AC units have a min voltage cut off, so only get a portion of the battery before out for low voltage. There are several other battery systems available.

    I don't understand why APU's are DC then use an inverter????
    Don't alternators produce ac?? Also why the low power production of most APU's?

    My 6500 gas genset uses 7 to 8 gallons in 12 hours, very close to just idling the truck in cost, only its legal. Just prefer not to have gas on the truck. Would have to get a fuel cell to be legal.
     
  6. L.B.

    L.B. Third Generation Truck Driver

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    I never understood why they provide AC power. I mean you use an inverter when going down the road, when you start the APU do you have to switch the plugs? Why not just have a large alternator and continue using your inverter?

    I like the idea of the battery systems, but if you wind up sitting for more than 10 hours, if don't have a place to plug in the truck you are out of power or have to idle anyway. Kinda defeats the purpose.
     
  7. Pawnd

    Pawnd Medium Load Member

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    If everything is setup properly the heavy users: refrigerator, AC/heatpump would switch sources automatically. Not sure the exact cost but is available at the big box stores for home backup systems. Inverter produced AC is harder on electronics. Plus much easier to convert AC to DC than DC to AC.
     
  8. L.B.

    L.B. Third Generation Truck Driver

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    If you have issues with inverters messing with your electronics, spend the extra $$ and get a pure sine wave inverter instead of a modified sine wave inverter. Much better and can actually be cleaner power than my household hookup is.
     
  9. 7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    E-mail koolrig and got a couple of indepth replies. Started out as a sales pitch and an attempt to convince me anything I/we come up with would be inferior to his product. Once I explained I wasn't trying to compete his tune changes and he gave me a breakdown of efforts made, research found and why he chose to use the final items. Basically it is a split 110vac heatpump with a sine-wave inverter. the solar panels and the suggested high performance LI batteries are "add-ons. So your right back to spending 10k+ when its all said and done. LB I'm still doing research to determine if you can run the second AC compressor in-line or if it must be eliminated. For a Split system heat (16k-26k BTU)/cool (20k-26k BTU) idea of what I am considering thers the DTAC under-bunk unit 402,403 or 430 and I still believe you could use the soft start electric compressor and the existing condensor. Back to the "library" LOL
     
  10. etcetera

    etcetera Bobtail Member

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    Lot's of good info, thanks for the clarification on the 12v/24v question.

    I've done a lot of dry camping in a trailer, and the best batteries I've found have been 6v golf cart batteries. I just had a pair in series for 12v and I could power everything (except AC) for a 3 day weekend without trouble. For longer trips I'd either charge from the tow vehicle or just watch the inverter usage. If in doubt, double or triple the number of batteries. The more capacity the battery bank the less you will discharge them and the longer they will last before you need to replace them. 1 complete discharge will take alot of the battery life away. I had Trojan t-105's at $90 each, but later I used the ones available from costco for $59 each. I think they worked just as good. Wal-Mart might even have them cheaper. They held up way, way better than any 12v batteries I tried, including optima. Cheaper to boot. I ran a small microwave, laptop, radio and other 110v devices from a 1500 watt inverter, and all the 12v accesories like water pump, heater fan, vents, and lights from the battery bank.

    I've been measuring my pickup truck, and I think I'm going to run the 12v ac pump. It would be hard to fit a regular compressor under the hood, a 318 detroit really doesn't belong in a pickup truck, but it will be fun. Several of the engines I've looked at had monster alternators because they are from buses. In my case I think it might be more efficient to run electric than run another belt for the ac. I also don't have to worry about reserve because I don't plan on running when the engine is stopped.
     
  11. 7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    Truth be told, after all of my research and design ideas and changes no one system is going to be best for everyones needs. The best system is the one that fills you needs. Example I don't intend to run north of the mason dixon line any more than I have to so my primary concern is cooling. Someone else may be primarily concerned with heat and another may just want the kool-est one on the road. LOL Alot of great ideas have come up in this thread and I hope they continue. Anyone else deciding to DIY pipe in and I'm sure plenty will assist with your design. Thank You to all the posters thus far.

    The guy from koolrig brought up a scenario that made me think about a back-up for my batteries. Looking at a small 1k watt generator to repower the batteries in case of lack of run time to re-charge sufficiently. If I need it fine if not it can be tucked away in storage.

    Etcetera what is the name and model of the battery from costco. We have walmart here in GA.
     
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