Volvo Questions

as to why you would not have the valves adjusted ever in 1.1 mil makes no sense to me no doubt its a good motor

 

If I look for a D16 specific part at the dealer, I usually have to wait a few days for it to get ordered before they can even do the work. The parts are almost always more expensive than the ones that go on a D13.

Having extra power really doesn't help me running west of Denver up I-70. If I use full throttle, the oil temp reaches 240F. If I take it easy, it holds at about 227F. I'd rather not stress the equipment than to get somewhere 5 minutes quicker.

My fuel economy pretty much sits around 6.5mpg pulling a flatbed. I don't see many benefits to having 600+ horsepower while running 5 axles.

 

what problems have you had with it? im not activly seeking out the d16 its just the only thing i can get into at the moment...

 

From 740,000 to 920,000

emissions system (turned out to be a corroded fuse on the battery, wasted $8000 changing parts)
EGR cooler
water pump
2 injectors went out, replaced with a 6 pack
idler pulley
starter

My problems are not necessarily with performance of the engine, but the extra time and costs associated with maintaining it.

 

what year do you have? this one is 07 so it does not have the doc dpf def system....
that is not a whole lot for 200k miles... what did the injectors run you for the 6 pack ? did they replace cups as well?

also if you dont mind me asking what do filters cost for those d16s? what oil are you running and wht intervals? also what other regular maintenance needs to be done? tia

 

Turbo is outside the engine.
injector cups do not require the head to be removed.
Idler gear is not inside the engine..

None of what you listed would require a inframe..!

The d11 d13, d16 are the exactly the same engine except for size. The d13 and d16 have been a problem from day 1.... the d16 WAS so bad the volvo stopped making it... that alone should tell you something..

 

The truck is a 2012 model.

We ended up paying $10,000 for the injectors, a new ECM, and a new injector wiring harness. The shop tested the injectors and said they were fine and went to replacing parts, only to retest the injectors and found they were bad. I think the 6 pack by itself was like 6-7 thousand. I don't think they did the cups. It took like a month to get that done due to waiting on parts and communication between Volvo corporate and the shop being slow.

I don't change my own oil, so I end up paying $250-350 for Volvo to do it every 25,000 miles. They use 10w30 synthetic. I don't have to add any oil between changes, even with a slow drip from the pan near the drain plug. I do grease the chassis about halfway between services. I try to stick to Volvo's recommended intervals for everything else.

Get a service manual for the truck and it will list the items and intervals to check them. It should suggest when to get an overhead, coolant filters, B service, etc. Even without a DPF, you'll still want to get your EGR system checked and cleaned periodically. Then you've got the transmission/clutch, differentials, tires, brakes, air dryer, etc. Some people wait for the shocks to fail and replace them, others might do it every year or 100,000 miles. Check everything rubber for cracking and wear. Worn cab bushings can make your ride rough or lean. The rubber boot on the leveling valve rod is prone to cracking, the new model is a stainless rod with hard plastic instead. Grab a spray bottle with soapy water and hit every fitting you can find and fix your air leaks. It's pretty much just like every other truck, with harder to find parts that cost more.

 

The D13 is plenty for 80,000 pounds unless you run from denver to Vegas all the time. We keep the dinette down all the time

 

Biggest problem is the EGR, first generation D16.... Second is the cups, which were also updated to conicals.


They used a small EGR cooler on the front of the motor which in the second generation they moved underneath the manifold similar to the d13.

Other than the first gen EGR cooler, i liked the D16 , it pulled great and got good fuel mileage.

 

240° oil temps are 100% fine.
The D13 brand new will run 240° regularly.. not an issue. The new oils are rated for the temps, especially synthetics... And it keeps moisture out of the oil.

260° you better start letting it cool down.