Got a Cat thread how about a Detroit thread.

but then it would throw a code because it's going to think it's stuck closed.

I don't even know how the thing works yet so I can't start to figure it out. HEck, I don't even know where it is. Is it that valve mounted to the turbo with the rod going to the center section of the turbo?

i'm so clueless right now and there is like no information out there on detroits. I know a few guys with high HP detroits but they are all pre EGR motors.


I am thinking I'd have to build a box with an air pressure switch hooked to a variable resistor which would match the outputs of a functioning EGR valve

 

ya that's kinda what I figured about the valve and cooler but I need a dictionary for the first part.. lol

sounds like a simple bypass of the valve wont work if it's taking readings dowstream somewhere. then it's going to have to all be done in the computer.

can't afford the box or a new ecm at this point though

 

hmmm.... it says it has a "condensation" mode in cold climates in which it disables the EGR.

It would probably be easiest to fool it into think it's cold out to put it into that mode. it says it runs lower boost but no loss of power because the EGR is closed. Now ideally i'd want more boost but it's a starting point anyways

 

While I no longer own a DD Im following your posts and progress made. I find all this very interesting. GOD, I love this stuff !! I went thru all of this with my Acert. it can be done. good luck guys...

 

Don't know about manifolds, I was talking more about cam and injectors, pistons, crank, rods, and ECM. Know a guy that went with a bunch of marine upper end parts with his "Scatterpillar". It made a but load of power but busted crank. He inserted marine crank and fluid damper. Had 110K miles last I saw him and no more problems. His Cat man told him though that he thought the motor just had an abnormally weak crank in it. A defect in the metal. My 12.7L Greenweeney motor is '02 so no EGR. Will be watching thread to see if diffinitive answer appears. I traded last Nov. for this thing. May trade again in Feb 2010. I'm un-impressed with fuel economy and less impressed with power.

Dave

 

There may be another temp sensor, but the intake manifold temp sensor may be the one that tells the EGR when to work. You could take the sensor off, put it in a refrigerator for a while, then take the ohm resistance across the terminals.

Once the readings are taken, go to Radio shack and get the appropriate resistor, insert in in the end of the pigtail that goes to the sensor, tape it in place, and see how that works.

For a few minutes work, and a fifty cent resistor, it's worth a shot. This makes sense if the EGR is temp controlled by outside air.

 

I've been reading the Detroit manual in more detail. It appears to me that the Ambient Air Temperature Sensor can be tricked with a resistor to think the engine is operating in temperatures of less than 30 deg, which will keep the EGR from operating with no CELs or dderates.

The same also seems to be true for the relative humidity sensor. Trick it into thinking the humidity is very high, and the same no EGR, no CEL, and no derate should be acheived.

These values should be easy to determine with an ohm meter, the related sensor, a freezer, and a steamy room.

I think I would try for the humidity sensor first.