Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to remove the fuse panel, and more specifically repair or replace a bad connection?
After 2 weeks of pulling out my hair I've managed to isolate my intermittent trailer brake light problem to the main feed for my relay (pin 30)
I replaced the trailer wiring, and I replaced the tractor wiring right up to the firewall. It's all new.
It took so long to figure it out because I was still getting 11.6 volts at the pigtail, and the test light would light up. Not to mention about half the time the lights worked properly, and the other 45 % they flickered and occasionally they didn't work at all.
Anyway, it occurred to me to apply 12v jumpered from another fuse location to the high current output on the relay terminal. Sure enough the lights illuminated strong and steady.
For now I will run a remote relay under the dash to get the brake lights working. but once the logging season ends I will want to fix it right.
Anyone have any pics or advise on pulling the panel apart?
Thanks
2004 Kenworth fuse panel.
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Hughjazz, Dec 6, 2019.
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It comes out from hood side of firewall. It isn't fun, but isn't terrible.
BoxCarKidd, Hughjazz and pushbroom Thank this. -
Kenworth sells kits to repair them.
They weren't too pricey.BoxCarKidd and Hughjazz Thank this. -
Maybe 3 hours. I have cut the output wire from a melted relay location. Then spliced it into one of the unused relay locations higher in the panel. Soldered connection with heat shrink is best. Be sure it is well sealed to the fire wall.
I will check into the kit next time.spsauerland and Hughjazz Thank this.
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