New Clutch, slipping sometimes in high gears

The 1750 clutch would have been fine. Although the 2050 is the way to go.
That wasn’t the cause of your trans slipping imo

 

No, if your linkage is bad, it will just fall apart. As long as there is free play, the clutch is grabbing at full potential

 

I also question your new mechanic on how he thinks adjuster was jammed on new clutch. Sometimes the nut can be a pain to push in requiring a small pry bar on back of wrench. But it takes little effort. He could be a shady mechanic too and fed you a bunch of nonsense to get the work. But hey, the world will never know and neither will you. Is the reason I do my own work and you can do it too. As an owner operator, you are throwing big money out the world having hacker after hacker work on your stuff and you don’t know what they did or are doing. Doing it yourself, you know it’s done by the book and no one can feed you bs and blame it on the last guy

 

Maybe loose/ warped flywheel? Imput bearing shot?

 

My Truck linkage was bad, loose ball joint ends. Along with bad cab bushings. Made the free play inconsistent. What felt like proper free travel, was loose linkage. New Clutch needs to be adjusted to proper specs first, then linkage needs to be repaired, or adjusted if needed.As I found out, after a lot of problems. Very important to get clutch adjusted first. Linkage second, to fit the Clutch adjustment.

 

I agree with you 100 percent sir. But when your linkage is bad in those joints, you can tell the difference in the pedal between bad joints and actual rod travel with free play. Well I shouldn’t speak for all. Most people really have no common sense with how things work and feel in their own truck. It’s a shame and it cost them big profits. Is what it is right

 

Very few do their own Clutches. I did mine last year, because I had to do a lot of extra work, along with it. It was a huge job for a learning experience. I wouldn’t suggest it. $2500-$3000 is well worth the labor involved, for a thorough job. Trans weighs about 800lbs. Best to pay sometimes, and get back to work. I’ll never do another, Too heavy of a job. Best for a Shop with proper tools. Stuck adjuster nut is not that uncommon. Still good to learn, to keep from being ripped off, by a Shop. Seems to be rampant, these days.

 

Free play is necessary,or it will slip. Every time you engage the clutch, it wears the lining, as it slips a little while engaging. So if you ride the clutch, that is let it out too slowly, it will wear more. Some Drivers have a bad habit of doing this at a stop, or on a hill. Also shifting at the wrong rpms, if using the clutch while shifting will wear it quicker. Smooth shifting at proper rpm to match road speed, takes practice. Most only use clutch to start and stop. Gears will shift without using the clutch, at correct rpm/ road speed. It takes a little practice, but it’s not that hard to learn. There’s a lot of debate on this, mostly from Manufacturer, as they’re worried more about warranty coverage on the transmission, than the clutch. If done properly it doesn’t hurt a thing. Sometimes they need adjustment a little more, when new. Till it gets burnished or matched up good to flywheel/ pressure plate. But proper adjustment should last at least 6 mo. 50 k miles, if not twice as long. The more it needs adjustment, the quicker the friction material is wearing. My last clutch was a reman, it needed adjusting more often for about 18 mo, or 150 k. Then it got better. It either had softer friction material, or was a little out of wack, till the friction pads got a little wore in. It had some uneven wear, on pads, when I replaced it. So yours may improve, over time. Meanwhile practice shifting. Try to have the clutch either in or out. Not in between. Get the feel of it when letting the pedal out, on take offs, Maybe you need to practice engaging it quicker, while keeping it smooth.