Hi all,
I have an 06 freightliner columbia with the cat c 15 engine that has been having issues. I've only owned it a couple of months. I was idling overnight and it started running rough like it had dropped a cylinder. The next morning it was still running poorly and had no power until I made it to the freeway. After that, it seemed to smooth out some, but still not full power. Made it home and run the self diagnostics and it came up with a sensor. I replaced the sensor in question and that cleared the code. No other code has been thrown. It has been slow cranking for a while, but after the sensor was changed, it was to the point that it now will not start. I've changed the batteries, and solenoid on the firewall but no help. Before I changed the batteries, I tried jumping it with 2 vehicles at the same time and assuming I blew a fuse or fusible link because I now have no power in the cab. The dash lights work, but none of the other lights nor cigarette lighter and 12 volt power ports work. I have checked the fuses on the panel on the passenger side dash, but they are all good.
06 freightliner columbia slow crank/no start, followed by no cab power.
Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by shawbrothers, Dec 13, 2012.
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Bad Starter ?
Check battery cables
Leave key on and use screw driver to jump it at solenoid on starter -
Thank you sir, I've already done those things and jumping the starter was the same thing. Very slow cranking and no start. Changing the starter is next on the list for parts changing.
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slow cranking is more likely a battery but theres a slight chance it could be ur starter
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I've already replaced all 4 batteries yesterday and all read 12.7 volts
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Then drop ur starter out get a battery charger and hook the battery charger up to the starter a trick my brother(mechanic) taught me ur ganna have to look up where u put the positive and the negative cable on the starter i cant remember at the moment but dont try and see if it works b4 u drop it bc ur starter can reach 400+ degrees if u push it to hard
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Could it be the crank sensor? Not sure about Cat's but I know with Detroit's there are two crank sensors that can cause the issues you are talking about. The sensors are about $20 a piece - the labor, well let's just say they were proud of it. Just a thought that may apply to your Cat.
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Also check for bad ground especially the one on the frame. Freights are known for having that ground wire get dirty and affect the starting......not sure about the fuse situation....kinda sound like you got two wires touching some where. get you a testor and follow the lighter power cord and see if you can find the point of loss of power.....make sure u pay attention to any splices or connectors
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in '04 freightliner changed power wiring. Before they used two positive wires and two negative wires (as I remember 50 mm2), later and now they use one positive (red) and one negative (black) wires. They are thik, as 75 ore 100 mm2 (exuse me, I use ISO wire gauge marking). Really the problem is ususally with positive wire in battery box ore negative wire bolted on starter. First of all unbolt wires one by one and use steel brush to clear cooper termonals. To find bad connection try to crank engine with starter and toch every connection. Bad connection is usually warm ore may be hot (so I use temperature gun). And I wanna say that terminals may be corroded inside, but it is easy to change.
Other way to find a problem - use VOM with long wires to find voltage drop checking voltage on negative and positive points. It is a way to learn what wire ore connection is bad, negative ore positive.... -
The last two posts here are the answer. Bad main cable connections, likely frame ground to battery cable. I had a service call for a Freightliner with the exact same symptoms, even the loss of cab power after trying to crank. You would have sworn it was just bad batteries. Tried boosting and boosting. Installed 4 new batteries, same problem! I did check all the starter and ground cables, by hand, and they were all tight. I mean, I literally grabbed them with my fist and shook the cable, they were tight. But the electrical connection at the frame stud for the frame to battery cable was arced behind the nut and washer. All it took was backing the nut off 1/2 a turn and re tightening it to re-establish the electrical connection. That sucker fired right up and I felt pretty dumb!
KGC2016 Thanks this.
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