07 Pete 379

That's a good price on that many miles...was it rebuilt?

 

be ware on alot of old trucks, sellers will list the miles since last inframe, not the total miles on the truck. This is BS because the engine isnt the only thing that wears out.

 

True but its the biggest cost. Good rule of thumb 750k is when to start watching the motor closely pray for 1,000,000 start watching like a hawk at 750k. About 1,000,000 out of a transmission before an overhaul. 10spds are fairly cheap to overhaul as opposed to a 13 or 18spd. Rears 1.1-1.5 million. Seen less out of them seen more all depends. Also remember key words DAY CAB 400k on an 07 day cab would be about right. But local work from what I have heard is also harder on motors and drivetrains as well.

What it has going for it
Low miles assuming they're correct
Good price
Good transmission given its an Eaton stay away from a meritor there's a thread that refers to them as the biggest fail of a truck transmission. Never driven one personally but dad has and he couldnt shift it at all
Breathers eh SS is nice most of them are. Check to see if they're Donaldson or Vortex. Donaldsons are more expensive and from what I have seen the same quality. My tractor has vortex breathers easy way to tell is to look at the bottom of the breather if there's a bolt through the bottom its a vortex. Tear one off or dent one and $400 is better than $550 the premimum Donaldson is more than that if I recall correctly.

Bad
Day cab. Even if you don't plan to be out overnight a sleeper is still nice even a small 36" coffin bunk is better than nothing
Check the rears I prefer Eaton over Rockwell. I can actually get parts for our truck that has Eaton's. Finding parts for my Rockwell rears that another story. Sure you can get the parts but it usually requires an order in.
Check the brakes they should be almost new on a day cab with 400k you can get about 400-500k on brakes so check them. Drums should be okay shoes run about $100/set 6 sets on a truck usually an hour labor per wheel. That gets expensive and when they tear it apart they will check your s cams, can bushings, etc. If they get into replacing that even more money drums vary in price last set I put on was $175/drum if I remember right.
Check the air bags. Dump the air out of the suspension and feel the bottom of the bag for cracking. It will start leaking eventually. Bags are about $200 no labor do them yourself. Wood blocks between the suspension bump stop and the spring dump the air 20 minutes per bag. All you need is 2 cresant wrenches and the wood. Beats the hell out of paying a shop to fix it. I do them myself now after finding out how easy they are to replace.
Sliding 5th wheels are nice as well check for that option.
Being local depending on where the trucks going to be running see if its a full screw (both rear axles are driven) as opposed to a drive tag setup. I personally wouldn't own a truck with a single drive even though it saves fuel my power divided has saved my butt a few times.

Check the usual lights tires etc make sure everything works. On that motor you have about 350k before running rods and mains which is plenty of time. Make sure you take care of it as well or put a driver in it who will take care of it. Also remember if you do an in frame and replace everything on it you're looking at a very large bill having a ACERT motor. I have a truck with a 550 and its a PITA and expensive to fix. Check the serial number. 07 is either NXS or MSX. MSX look to see if the JVS studs have been upgraded. I believe that's what they are called they bolt the housing I believe. They had problems with those breaking. Costs about $500 in parts and $500 in labor. If it hasn't been done DO IT! $1000 now is better than a tow bill, canceled load, down time, and paying to fix a motor that grenaded.

Overall good price truck doesnt sound too bad as long as its sound. It is pretty cheap though that's my only concern is the price. Those are on truck paper for a lot more than that so go over it with a fine tooth comb. I mean really fine tooth.