12.7 AC Compressor Clutch

The only bolts you take off are the 4 outer ones. Square shiny plate. That simple. A “short belt” should be carried, for such instances. Running from accessory drive to alternator. Though it’s tough with the pad mount alternator, I’ve done it a few times. Have to get the exact size belt. If you leave it on a while, it will get loose and slip. Then you have to use washers between the alternator and bracket to tighten it up. 20 minutes away, you’ll be fine w/o an alternator. Daylight hours, no headlights. I’ve ran 3-4 hrs that way, with only 3 batteries. When the clutch goes bad, it usually smokes the bearing in the compressor. Not always, but usually. Due to the aluminum compressor body. The old cast iron compressors didn’t do it. That was 40 yrs ago. Those compressors are junk. Do yourself a favor, up grade to a Sanden Compressor. They’re cheaper and better. New bracket is $250 aftermarket Original Freightliner/ Detroit style Sanden pad mount bracket, uses your same alternator. PM me if you’re interested in part #s for bracket, compressor, and belt, if you want to fix the problem. York compressors the problem.

 

On second thought. I think the 1/2” center bolt does need to come out. It’s been a while, but I’ve changed at least 3 or 4 of them. I want to say I put a small screwdriver in through the front to lock it up.

 

Take the small bolt out of the center of the clutch. Screw a 5/8 s course thread bolt in in its place. There is a special tool for holding the clutch. In a bind clamp the front clutch plate to the pulley groove with a pair of vise grips. Hold that and tighten the bolt. Clutch will pop off.
I am sure you are past that by now but that is how it works.