I doubt it. Those pumps are very reliable,Used for a bunch of other applications. Of course it’s possible, you got the one in a million that was bad. I’m wondering if old pump was even bad? You never said how you got to the point of replacing fuel pump, just that some work was done previously at Detroit, new sensors. No codes, etc. vague at best. More info with symptoms and repairs and results, of what was previously done might help, Either pump was bad, and now you’ve lost prime, or for some unknown reason, you lost prime, and assumed pump was bad. Or it’s some other problem, now complicated by losing prime. But it did start once for a short while!!! PRIME SYSTEM. By pressurizing fuel tanks first. Then throw money at it if you have to.
12.7 questions
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Wanabe1, Jun 17, 2019.
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Reason I had it at detroit was I hadn't run it in 2 yrs and rpm guage was not working. They say they dealers can pinpoint where the problem is but after 3 gauges, they tell me they will bring it in again and fix it again for another $150.00/HR. and that there was nothing wrong with the truck and that on this old of a truck the rpm guage can just go out and it is not fixable. Obviously, I didn't buy that and felt I wasted a lot of money for 3 different rpm gauges. I drove the truck to a fella across town. We did lots of stuff. Tried a different ecm, new cam-crank sensors, chased wire all the way back from rpm guage to computer. It shows a high voltage and does not change. And no change when we tried a different ecm. I had a very small fuel leak at the pump so I changed for one of his used fuel pumps. Truck seemed to run and start fine even after sitting for a month. Turned over less than one revolution-started. I drive the truck to my place to grease, etc. Just as I drive in the yard, check engine light comes on. I shut off. Try to restart. Do not pass go. No $200. Change fuel filters and restart with either. Noticed, but not experienced enough to be alarmed. Secondary fuel filter was very loose. And the flash codes flashed a code 42. This is the code for cam sensor. I check cam sensor nothing seems amiss so being ddec 3, I disconnect battery to clear the code. It did and now, no codes. I got a brand new pump thinking possibly there could be something wrong with pressure on used one and the freightliner dealer sold it to me for about the same price as SRS and TRS sensors. It seemed the new pump was working. I am pretty sure I had quite a bit of fuel out the back of the head. Put hose back on back there. No change. I go to the fella with the wrecks get different SRS trs sensors no change. Think go to square one. Recheck everything. I find new pump will not pump even with pressure applied. Put old pump back on. Was pumping real good through 2nd filter. And I have battery charger on. Every so often I would run the starter a while and ran it on either a little. But after about 6 cans I am concerned about too much either. Also the last time, I propped throttle about half open. I am baffled.
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Ok, so have you tried to pressurize tanks, with all fittings on and everything buttoned up yet. You need to rule this out. Probably first lost prime when filter came loose.The system must be closed up before pressurizing tanks.
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When the engine quit pulling in your drive way you said check engine lights came on. This tells me it's not fuel related at all, as the ecm has no way to monitor fuel presure or anything fuel related except temp.
You problem is electrical related and you've been obsessed with the fuel side of things . Not to mention you've probably done your engine no justice by running 4 cans either through it. And almost burned up your starter .
Check all the wiring from cam and crank sensors. Also double check all grounds and positives at ecm . Load test the wires. You've been beating your head against wall over a fuel pump, your chasing your tail.Rideandrepair, spyder7723 and AModelCat Thank this. -
Yeah. This is my latest assumption. I ran out if fuel in my generator last night running charger all night. Am on my way into town for fuel as we speak.
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How do you pressurize a closed loop system............... you cant.
You need to take the return off the back of the head then pressurize the tanks.
If you leave the return on then it will have just as much pressure as the feed and nothing will flow...
Regardless it's not his issue anyway.
Its electrical.spyder7723, Rideandrepair and AModelCat Thank this. -
Your rpm gauge not working leads me to believe this is related. If you want to keep on throwing money at it start with a new engine harness. Being a ddec3 and if it's original it's time anyway. My bet is you have a short or chafed wire in the harness.
BoxCarKidd and AModelCat Thank this. -
I have not ruled out fuel or electrical. As I mentioned. I have been checking both. Only as far as electrical, if there were a true code, it should repopulate after being cleared. There is an electrical
Wire going to secondary fuel assay. But even being unhooked, will still let fuel by it. And not sure what it does. It gives no codes. It is in the back of my mind to check for signal to injectors. -
Code 42 srs is all you got right ang since cleared. You already changed out both trs srs, wire to ff is restriction gauge. It don’t matter. I told you how to pressurize tanks, it’s very easy to do.
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That wire is for fuel temp..... ecm has no way to tell fuel pressure.
You've cleared codes. Now with it not running it probably wont set another one anytime soon.
Check wiring from ecm to trs and srs .
Also power and grounds and you will find your issue.AModelCat Thanks this.
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